[TR] Ingalls Peak- East Ridge 8/21/2004

[rbw1966]

Climb: Ingalls Peak-East Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 8/21/2004

 

Trip Report:

Something smells like crap!

 

It was late, we were bloated on mediocre mexican food and cheap beer and still damp from our hike out. Screw it, this looks like a good spot. So the four of us lay out our tarps/bivvy sacks by the side of the highway and crashed.

 

Shredmaximus (Pat), Funguy (Dave), Sketchfest (Paul) and myself (Rob) decide to take a crack at the West Ridge of Stuart. However, rather than bust our balls and try to do it car-to-car we decide to capture the whole alpine experience and bivvy en route. Dave suggests we take on Ingalls as well since its on the way and before you know it we've settled on a plan.

 

We're on the road by 5:30 a.m. Saturday and at the Teanaway trailhead by 10:00. Dave sets a blistering pace and we're at Ingalls Pass by 11:15. The sky's starting to cloud over already but we're optimistic the forecast is wrong (40% chance of rain). We scoot down to the Lake and then start scrambling the slabs to the foot of the gulley leading to the east ridge of Ingalls. Aside from a couple hikers we passed earlier, we are the only ones around.

 

The west ridge of Stuart with Dave and Paul in the foreground.

 

Pat leads off up the scrambling in the gully with me following. Dave and Paul are on a seperate rope behind me.

 

 

The climbing itself, aside from a couple of moves, goes at 5.easy with a few really 5.fun moves.

 

 

The only down side to the entire climb was the gaggle of paparazzi who followed us on our ascent.

 

 

The flashes going off made the exposure that much more unnerving.

 

Dave led the final pitch to the summit, working a variation that went up over the final horn rather than the 5.7ish traverse around it. Lots of loose stuff made this particular variation pretty spicy. The fixed nut remained there; I was unable to bust it loose. The booty gods frowned upon my efforts. However, the two lovely ladies we saw descending from the South Ridge made it all worthwhile.

 

We traversed over to the rap station and joined the twins together for a full 60M rap down. The wind picked up just as we launched the ropes, causing a mass of tangles. After we all rapelled to the first big ledge and finally pulled the ropes, we opted to downclimb the rest of the south ridge to avoid any further rope problems.

 

Back down at our packs by 4 p.m. we pack it up and head down to the lake to pump some water and plan our next move. The sky's really darkening at this point and it feels like rain. We briefly consider heading over to the west ridge of Stuart anyway, hoping the weather passes quickly but in the end we decide to head back to the car.

 

Stuart from Ingalls Lake.

 

Just as soon as we decide to head back to the car, the sky opens on us and we are quickly drenched. By the time we actually get to the car the rain has stopped and we toss back a few beers to drown our sorrows and formulate a new plan of attack. Regardless, we are glad we're not on the west ridge now.

 

Since we only have a pair of 60M twins, a rack of hexes and stoppers, and a few cams, our choices are somewhat limited. We eventually decide to head to the Tieton area, load up on some hot food and crash, hopefully getting a few pitches in on Sunday. So after a few false starts looking for decent grub in Cle Elum we make it to Yakivegas where we throw down on some colon-blow at the local tacqueria. Its after 10 by the time we are heading past Naches in search of a roadside bivvy. We eventually pull over and start laying out our stuff. Early the next morning the monsoons start again and my epic bivvy starts sticking to my face like the cold, clammy hand of death itself (next time I bring my pole). I scramble back into the car and am awakened at dawn my Paul's cries of "shit!"

 

Why yes, that is indeed shit and judging from the undigested whole-kernel corn in it, I'd say its human. Laying a modest 8 inches or so from his face its no wonder he smelled shit when we got out of the car the night before.

 

Of course we all giggle like schoolgirls at Paul's misfortune, which in the end, serves as a metaphor for the whole trip: we may have gotten crapped on but we had a good time nonetheless.

 

Gear Notes:

60M twins

Rack of Hexes

Slung Stoppers

(some cams would have been helpful but not necessary)

Edited August 24, 2004 by rbw1966

[Winter]

Good work fellas! Glad to hear you all had a good one.

[iain]

That chossy starting gully on east ridge makes you wonder what you're getting yourself into. I like coming through that gap at the ridge crest on the other side.

[sketchfest]

Definitely good times

[rbw1966]

Sorry for all the edits. I was trying to load the pictures in it.

[dbb]

Bwuhahahah, that is so damn funny. Great TR! Reminds me of when I stepped out of the car bare foot at a TH and stepped right into a melted out turd.

[b-rock]

[goatboy]

Well written, amusing trip report. So much talent, no wonder the paparazzi were chasing you, eh???

 

Thanks for the photos and funny stories.

[rbw1966]

Oh, and I forgot to mention:

 

This is just another BOMB TRACK!

[catbirdseat]

Good job staying out of the chimney on the approach to the notch. You were much smarter than we were.