Ice Screws and Pickets

[selkirk]

I need to pick up some Ice screws (4x I think?) and Pickets (2x more). Any suggestions of good one or warnings of ones that blow goats?

Cheers

[letsroll]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB28&Number=350021&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

[IceIceBaby]

Pickets Yeats

Glacier screws BD

Icefall screws Grivel 360

[selkirk]

Any special reason for the Yeats?

[fenderfour]

My $0.02:

 

Glacier screws: Long Russian Ti jobs. Why would you want a sub-standard screw? I'll tell you why. 1. Cheap 2. Lightweight. Chances are you won't be doing any gripped vertical climbing on a glacier, just some running belays on moderate ice (to 45 degrees) you will have a great stance to place them and remove them. You also won't be too broken up about leaving them for a bail piece.

 

Pickets I think the Yates pickets are the V-type, not the T-type. I have heard reports of the V shaped pickets collapsing and pulling out under large loads. Is this something to worry about? Probably not, but it is something to be aware of.

 

Disclaimer: I don't know shit about shit.

[boatskiclimbsail]

Yeats:

 

The tower's old cook that must climb and clamber

Catching small birds in the dew of the morn

When we hale men lie stretched in slumber

Swears that he hears the king's great horn.

But he's a lying hound:

Stand we on guard oath-bound!

 

There in the tomb the dark grows blacker,

But wind comes up from the shore:

They shake when the winds roar,

Old bones upon the mountain shake.

 

 

Yates:

[Bronco]

Good one:

I have a couple yates pickets without the leash and like them for a few reasons.

 

1. Lightest picket I know of.

2. You can pack them together easily.

3. The stainless steel cap really works in keeping the picket from getting bashed up to crap.

4. Purty high visability colors.

5. Available at Feathered Friends when I bought mine.

This is the only pieces of gear I own that I don't see the drawback of having the lightweight model other than it costs a bit more than the standard "T" model pickets. I'd be surprised if the guys who "collapsed them" were using them properly or if a T picket would have held any better.

 

Blows goats:

A couple of years ago, I made some pickets out of 60 series T stock. Each one weights as much as 4 of the yates and took me over an hour to make. I know you were probably not considering making them, but if you were, don't do it.

 

I have both the Ti screws and some BD. I like them for different stuff. Ti are cheap and light, bd are stronger and go in quicker.