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New Study Shows Rock Climbers Prefer Unvegetated


Dru

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ABSTRACT

 

THE RELATIVE INFLUENCE OF MICROHABITAT CONSTRAINTS AND ROCK CLIMBING DISTURBANCE TO CLIFF FACE VEGETATION COMMUNITIES

 

Kathryn Lynne Kuntz

 

University of Guelph, 2004

 

Advisor: Dr. Douglas Larson

 

 

 

This study is the first to determine the relative influence of pre-existing microhabitat constraints vs. direct rock climbing disturbance to the cliff face vegetation communities of the Niagara Escarpment in southern Ontario. Climbed and unclimbed cliff faces were sampled quantitatively for vascular plant, bryophyte and lichen species richness, percent frequency and community composition, microtopographic feature size and frequency, and measures influencing microclimate. Results revealed that certain microhabitat conditions are related to increases in the richness and cover of cliff face vegetation, and that rock climbers select for different microhabitat conditions when establishing climbing routes. No decreases in vascular plant, bryophyte or lichen species richness or cover on climbed cliff faces were attributable to direct climbing disturbance (I added these italics-DB). Pre-existing microhabitat conditions explained greater proportions of variation in vegetation community composition across unclimbed and climbed cliff faces than climbing disturbance. A policy is presented that permits new climbing route establishment with limited impact.

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It only applies to sport climbing crags in Ontario.... but this is new science from the group that 2 years ago was proposing bannning all new routing in Ontario because it supposedly threatened endangered plant and lichen species.

 

The new paper is something of a turnaround and is based on a better understanding of climbing and a better sampling methodology.

 

I think it's good news and the paper can be used to help fight for climber access in other similar situations - such as at Skaha or L'worth or wherever there are concerns about climber impacts on rare plants.

 

Oh yeah also to pope and dwayner this paper is saying that sport climbing (bolts up clean face) has less impact than scubbing out some dirty and plant filled crack for a new trad route boxing_smiley.gif Sport climbing - clean and green! hahaha.gif

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It only applies to sport climbing crags in Ontario.... but this is new science from the group that 2 years ago was proposing bannning all new routing in Ontario because it supposedly threatened endangered plant and lichen species.

 

The new paper is something of a turnaround and is based on a better understanding of climbing and a better sampling methodology.

 

I think it's good news and the paper can be used to help fight for climber access in other similar situations - such as at Skaha or L'worth or wherever there are concerns about climber impacts on rare plants.

 

Oh yeah also to pope and dwayner this paper is saying that sport climbing (bolts up clean face) has less impact than scubbing out some dirty and plant filled crack for a new trad route boxing_smiley.gif Sport climbing - clean and green! hahaha.gif

 

archive1.jpg

No vegetation impact going on here. Right..... Blight?

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It only applies to sport climbing crags in Ontario....

Just to provide some background, the crags in question are primarily Rattlesnake Point, Kelso, Mt. Nemo and probably Lion's Head. The first two are mostly top-roping/trad areas, the third is almost exclusively trad with a few bolted lines (unless the top roping & bolting ban has been lifted), and the last is almost entirely sport climbing (in a spectacular setting above Georgian Bay).

 

The reason for studies like this over the years is that the first three crags are about a 40 minute drive from downtown Toronto (Canada's largest city), and during the 80's and 90's saw a huge increase in climber traffic. The cliffs are also home to old growth cedar trees (they look like shrubs, but some are over 500 years old!), which were felt to be in danger from the uncaring climbers and their disruptive ways.

 

Much hullabaloo and gnashing of teeth between climbers and environmentalists has occured over the years, with climber's access being seriously threatened. A ban on top roping and bolting at Mt. Nemo was self imposed in an effort to keep the peace.

 

It's good to see a report that seems to agree with what many climbers have said all along, but I'm sure that there is another report out there that claims the opposite.

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