how to climb rainier

[brett]

hello all!

 

This is my first post in cascadeclimbers and I'm definitely a newb, so try to understand

 

Basically, I'm wondering how I can climb Mt Rainier without the use of RMI. I read an article about RMI where Lou [whom I have alot of respect for...] is quoted as saying "Most of our clients just want to get to the summit the fastest way they can." Then goes on to explain the RMI procedure of a quick push up the mountain, without enjoying the sights or the mountain at all. I've heard this from other people and I don't want this to be MY experience.

 

I dont care about the top nearly as much as the climb there.

 

Is there any way I can climb Rainier without spending an arm and a leg on a guide? I'm 19 and it's been a passion of mine for awhile now, but I'm just finally able to afford some of the costs. I've climbed up to Muir and it doesn't seem like spending 770 bucks on a guide will make the trip to the top THAT much safer or enjoyable. Safety, of course, is paramount, but there's GOT to be another way....

 

There are courses and such as well, I'm sure. But they're just as expensive as making the climb.

 

I dont know where to begin, any ideas? I'll be on Mt Si on Wednesday evening and hiking up to Muir on Thursday if anyone's gonna be out there!

 

thanks in advance~

 

-brett

[Blakej]

Well here's my plan as like you I'm working on building my experience. Assuming you have some time before your intended climb of Rainier I would worry about all the other great climbing in Washington and build your experience and then go. Like you I want the experience more than the summit. I think once you begin gaining climbing experience that a Rainier summit wont be that far away and unlike payed clients you will have the joy of climbing it on your own and not feeling like you were just drug up the mountain.

[fenderfour]

Step... Step... Step...

 

Just kidding. The key to a safe trip up Rainier (IMHO) is knowing glacier travel and crevasse rescue. The Mountaineers cover this stuff for about $400 in their basic class, the Boealps do the same thing for $200. Both of these classes teach you a whole lot more than just glacier travel.

 

Another route to take is to get a good book (Freedom of the Hills) and practice the techniques in a safe setting. The techniques are not difficult, just specialized. Throw a rope over a tree branch and prusik up. Learn to build snow anchors. Set up a Z-pulley over a large snow embankment and pull someone up.

 

My last recommendation repeats Blake's thoughts. Get some experience. Climbing Rainier in good weather can be a cakewalk. Climbing Rainier in a nasty storm can be terrifying.

 

Good luck.

[brett]

Wow, thanks guys. I totally agreee with both of you and I'm especially glad to be hearing it. I wouldn't climb rainier without at least st helens and hood under my belt. I'm glad you guys are saying that reading a book and practice is a good way to do it.... that's how I've learned just about everything I know, and it's comforting to know that this is no different.

 

I'm sure I'll be posting on here all the time with weird questions, so keep me on the lookout and I'll see you at the top

 

-brett

[Skeezix]

You've got plenty of time, Brett. Work your way up to it.

[Bug]

Climb the south ridge of Adams. No crevasses. Big crowds. But you will get a feel for slogging and get up to 12K. Maybe take a rope along and practice some crevass rescue over a steep snow face.

[catbirdseat]

I suggest doing Baker first. It is a fun climb with a lot of the same glacial features of Rainier on a smaller scale. You can dial in all the skills you will need on Rainier.

[wally]

The DC on Rainier was the first climb I ever did. I studied and practiced everything in Freedom of the Hills on glacier travel and crevasse rescue and trained like a mother. Then I found someone with more experience than I who was willing to lead me up the hill. It would of been nice if I would have tried my crampons out ahead of time, poking holes in your new gaiters sucks! Granted if my leader was the one who fell in a hole I wouldn't of had a clue how to help him out, so practice is a good.