Learn to bolt

[texplorer]

I am interested in learning to bolt. I have been climbing alot of routes lately that are kinda runout, especially those ones with cracks in them. I guess those old school guys just were so poor they had to climb a long ways without protection but today things shouldn't be that way. I noticed alot of unbolted routes in the main area at leavenworth a couple of weeks ago that weren't bolted. I bet those cracks would be fun to climb if they had a bolt every 6ft. Anyway, if an older climber would like to show me how to drill I would be stoked. Then I can start placing these couple of hundred new hangers I just bought. Serious replies only please.

[Off_White]

Awww tex, if you wanna catch anything with this troll you've gotta make up a new avatar, give it some credentials like a Mountaineer's course or two, and have it float the question while being a little more ignorant about the whole crack bolting thing.

[b-rock]

Hypothetical situation - there are bolts where they should not be, and the hangers are easily removed. Now what? Does the bolt head get yanked with a crowbar? Or cut off? Best way to fill in the hole? I can't seemt to find the past threads with this info, thanks.

[texplorer]

Damn I guess your right. Actually I really would like to learn to drill this summer. I would mainly be putting up anchors on new climbs though. I have never put up a first ascent but think it would be really exciting. This weekend I did some scouting and may have found a new "secret spot." Anyway, if anyone really has knowledge on placing bolts where they belong then I am interested.

[Off_White]

Okay, that sounds like a real question, I'll bite. It all depends on the kind of bolt you're trying to remove. Contraction bolts, like the old Rawl split shanks, either with a buttonhead or a nut, are removed with brute force. Some folks have advocated wedging action (watch out for rock scarring!), I've used a modified slide hammer (like those used to remove wheel bearings and such). Expansion bolts are different, like the now popular 5 piece rawl. They consist of a three piece sleeve, bolt, and cone. To remove the hanger, the bolt comes all the way out, then you thread it back in a little, tap it down to disengage the cone from the sleeve, remove the bolt, and fish out the sleeve parts with a coathanger and needlenose pliers. I think chopping off a protruding stud with a cold chisel or some such would tend to leave an unsightly scar. I'd love to hear what someone has come up with for good hole filling, I've used polyurethane caulking and tried to camoflage with bits of rock, dust, and even a little spray paint, but I'm not fully satsified with the result.

[Dru]

Here is an idea for filling old bolt holes. Take a pebble and grind it down until it fits the hole like an ice cream scoop fits the cone. Then tap it into the hole.

 

With any luck somebody is gonna think its a xenolith and try and crimp on it and then Pop!!!

[Off_White]

Dru, since I usually work in Sandstone, that idea has real merit. All I need is that cordless belt sander so I can do a little rap filling...

[Crackbolter]

Tex,

 

I will take you out and teach you how to bolt. Just give me a PM. I will even show you where you can bolt. What kind of drill do you have? I am not as old as some folks but I can show you how. When should we get together?

[jkrueger]

quote:

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Originally posted by texplorer:

This weekend I did some scouting and may have found a new "secret spot."

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Hey Tex - those lines are mine!!!

 

I think we're going to have to take this matter of bolting rights and first ascents to the snafflehound ring! We'll throw my snaffle and a bunch of your gear in the ring. If my snaffle can eat all of your stuff, I win. But if you have more gear than my snaffle can pack down, you win - and you can do the routes with what (little) gear you have left.

 

By the way, can I buy one of those snafflehounds off you? Seems I have immediate need for one...