Dry vs. Non-Dry

[eternalX]

At rockfest, one of the guys told the us that if you used a dry rope out 2 or 3 days in regular rock climbing, that it'd lose its 'dry' abilites (because of the wear on the sheath). This sounds incorrect to me because i thought they treated the individual fibers, not just the outside of the rope.

 

The reason I'm asking is because I need to buy my first rope. I need something for all around use (glacier, toproping, sport, one day trad). I was thinking about getting a 10.2 dry 60m. Is that a waste? Should I just get a thicker standard 60m and a real thin dry 50-60m?

[Alex_Mineev]

IMO it depends on how much glacier/ice vs rock climbing you gonna do. I have a standard 10.5 50m rope and last time I used it was a year ago when I climbed Baker with my wife. Since that time I prefer when my partners bring their thin ropes. If I was buying rope today I'd get a thin one because usually there is always one or two thick ropes to choose from and not always a thin rope.

[Ryan]

I bought a dry 8.1 double line for glacier and easy alpine routes. I got a good deal on it, which was the primary reason for buying it, but it is nice to have. I don't think that using your dry rope rock climbing will affect it's dry capabilities, but you have to have the right rope. Sterling and Beal are the only two manufacturers that dry treat each individual strand of the core and sheath, which makes their dry ropes a bit better than the rest (IMHO). It's worth it to have a dry rope, though. The extra money is well worth it when you find yourself in a downpour with a rope that is up to the task. If you want to get a rope that will be good on everything, you might want to go a little lower than 10.2. The Sterling Marathon is a super nice rope that you can get in a 10.0, which would fit the bill it seems. Good luck!

[lummox]

dry has better 'hand'.

[Stemalot]

I buy two ropes. One 10mm to 10.5mm non-dry for rock climbing and one skinny for glacier or easy alpine routes. I will not climb with someone who carries a 11mm(or 10mm) rope into the alpine and use it on glacier(stupid people do that)...unless we are doing some major aid route. If you can only get one rope, I would get the thinnest single rope that's dry; could be expensive though!

Edited May 31, 2004 by Stemalot

[eternalX]

I ended up buying the Edelweiss 10.3 Axis Dry 60m for $114.95 at gearexpress.com