Szyjakowski Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 In followup to mr peru and my index adventure we decided to move the party to WAPASS.... on Friday after another 10+hrs standing in a muddy hole I picked up BP in EastLake and we hightailed it for Ltown. We arrived around 10pm after a short break in Goldbar... Sat morning, I wished my mother a happy mothers day and then BP and I Steered the sube to the north with the pedal to the metal... we made a quick pitstop at the Cinnamon Twisp for coffee, pastries and lunch goods and then continued pushing my ole car to the max.... Fortunately when we arrived at the hairpin the skies were partly cloudy (somewhat of a highceiling) and the track up to South spire was well established (thanks all )... having climbed with BP a few times I knew of his hiking ability and energy...however, I did not know of how much that increased when the East Butt Slut intends to climb his favorite route....... By the time I arrived at the base of the climb ~1hr after leaving the sube, mr peru was foaming at the mouth ready to send with the rope uncoiled & tied into his harness and the rack around his shoulders....after a brief discussion of our intentions--simu-climb to the first bolt ladder via flake variation, then lead two bolt ladders...then one more stretcher to the top for lunch...(hopefully we beat the impending snowstorm)...mr peru launched upward. By the time I got my shoes on and all my gear in order the rope came tight and I proceeded upwards as well. At this time, BP placed the first piece of pro and exclaimed with an echoing wOOt WooT. He then continued up the flakes, which by the way is a very cool and nice-exposed variation to the regular East Butt Direct route.... When I arrived at the base of the first bolt ladder, I found the ever-smiling bobbyperu giving me the old-fashioned hipbelay since, i had already climbed the eastbutt direct years ago, the plan was for me to lead the first boltladder and bp the second...after a quick glance at the sky, check of the watch and chat with BP...I decided to enjoy the tr session and follow the EBS to the top...1.75 hrs, three snow fluries later we both stood on top of the South Early Winter Spire! after we downclimbed the south arete and then proceeded to glissade on our to the hairpin...so cool! car2car=5hrs more and then back in the sube, destination Bellingham and mothers day with the peru family. Sunday fun with BP's mother, brother and girlfriend....drive up to mt baker, marionberry pie with icecream, pizza and beer....and a few then time to head south... at about 730pm we pulled into the mt Erie Pking area and headed up to Snag Buttress to climb the cool crack with walk the plank tree... very cool sunset and sweet crack climbing...... short session on top and then simu rap to the ground...run back down the trail in the dark...headlamp just in case.....car2car= 1.25hrs... back in seattle around 1130pm 630miles and a couple sweet routes. Quote
bobbyperu Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 supa-fun!!!! oh yeah for all interested the eastbutt is in really good shape...dry as can be, great snow all the way from the hairpin to the base of the route, and as ben described perfect afternoon snow for the glissade down to the car. our original intention was to do a bit of enchainin' of spires that day, but freezing temps, sno flurries, and the satifaction with doing the best positioned route at the pass (IMO) had us on our way to b-ham... we had a hard time resisting the temptation to "borrow" the at gear sitting at the base of the s. arete, belonging to the fellow tied in and belaying his leader as he sewed up the first "pitch" on the arete... fuckin karma, woulda' been a blast tho to rip down spire gulley, all in all tho the glissading was ill, and we were giggling the entire way down good times! oh and ifin yer eva up 542 east stop at the alpenglow farms for pie for sure... the marion/ rasberry, or tayberry pies will give you a stomach orgasm, and then of course on youre way back west a stop at the northfork brewery is pretty much mandatory, the ipa will rock your dome!!!! and the pizza pretty damn good too oh yeah the snag butt is hard to beat for sunset action! lovely!!!! eerie pretty cool sometimes, espesially when yer heading up after everyones already finished for the day great weekend ben!!!! thanx bro Quote
jja Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 way to go guys sounds like a looong day! since the e but slut hisself is here now, how bout some beta for a mere mortal like myself. what's the best strategy for this thing? If I don't intend to free the bolt ladders (don't think I can make the moves) do I need aiders? or are the bolts close enough that french free will work? once the snow melts how long is the walk from the base of the s.arete to the base of the route? - don't want to carry shoes and packs up the climb if i dont' have to. tanks Quote
Dustin_B Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Was up doing the South Arete on Saturday afternoon when these two guys climbed down as my buddy was leading off on the first “pitch”. I chatted a bit with them and one of them kept saying “East Butt Slut, East Butt Slut”. I thought to myself, I’ve heard or read that before, I know who this guy is. I said nothing though. If these guys were truly going to snag my gear I would bust em here for sure. So if the Karma wasn’t going to get ya, I would... Good move leaving the gear where it lay. I can assure you the ski down was better than the glissade. Nice wind blow ‘powder’ for the first 500 feet or so, slowly turning into heavy mush down lower. We skied down the Blue Lake side. PS – Yes we stitched up the first 2 “pitches” like a seasoned seamstress but everyone has to start somewhere; thanks for noticing. Quote
bobbyperu Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Was up doing the South Arete on Saturday afternoon when these two guys climbed down as my buddy was leading off on the first “pitch”. I chatted a bit with them and one of them kept saying “East Butt Slut, East Butt Slut”. I thought to myself, I’ve heard or read that before, I know who this guy is. I said nothing though. If these guys were truly going to snag my gear I would bust em here for sure. So if the Karma wasn’t going to get ya, I would... Good move leaving the gear where it lay. I can assure you the ski down was better than the glissade. Nice wind blow ‘powder’ for the first 500 feet or so, slowly turning into heavy mush down lower. We skied down the Blue Lake side. PS – Yes we stitched up the first 2 “pitches” like a seasoned seamstress but everyone has to start somewhere; thanks for noticing. fuck! now i feel like an idiot for at least not pretending to steal your shit, just to see what you would do ? well youre a big dood, but i aint scurred! see ya on another descent route someday have fun out there Quote
jja Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 cool, thanks a bunch btw, the looong day comment was about all the driving. hope to give this route a go this summer for sure. Quote
bobbyperu Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 way to go guys sounds like a looong day! since the e but slut hisself is here now, how bout some beta for a mere mortal like myself. what's the best strategy for this thing? If I don't intend to free the bolt ladders (don't think I can make the moves) do I need aiders? or are the bolts close enough that french free will work? once the snow melts how long is the walk from the base of the s.arete to the base of the route? - don't want to carry shoes and packs up the climb if i dont' have to. tanks now i see what you wanna do, you want o walk in rock shoes from the base of the s. arete to the base of the e. butt..? well i've never done or considered that... because the terrain around the base of the se face is pretty varried and has a bit of looseness, but its not all that bad, head along the base of the wall until it drops off above the small crag thats in front of the face, downclimb past the start of passanger route, then along the face still passing the start of that bolted line, past inferno route, and keep heading towards the toe of the butt. ive gone the reverse before and it didn't take too long. specialed and lunger i belive approached this way as i saw their tracks, but then again this was with sno...so.... and they were skiing down after sending the butt..! rad!!!! Quote
slaphappy Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Sheesh BP, don't you ever climb anything other than that meidiocre choss heap? Quote
Dustin_B Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 see ya on another descent route someday Oh, will you be glissading? Quote
slaphappy Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Uh, I think the jokes on you there, Dustin. I believe he meant that you were making a "climbing route" of the South Ditch and he uses it as a descent hike. You'll catch up, captain. Quote
Off_White Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 Making fun of someone for climbing an easy route strikes me as a bit churlish, you're a better man than that Mr. Peru. Quote
Dustin_B Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 (edited) Uh, I think the jokes on you there, Dustin. I believe he meant that you were making a "climbing route" of the South Ditch and he uses it as a descent hike. You'll catch up, captain. Yeah, I knew what he meant. That was my snappy come back, get it? I had no defense to his slam implying we're gapers (which we are) so I made a joke about the fact that they had to glissade down. I even said when he climbed down to the base "you guys are solo down climbing harder than we're leading...." Its funny like a joke, you know what those are right? No read my joke again, funny no? Edited May 12, 2004 by Dustin_B Quote
slaphappy Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 Weak, Dustin, very weak. (as the joke goes) As far as the climbing, we all have to start somewhere and the South Ditch is a fine starting point. Quote
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