Unknown Climb on Apron

[PaulB]

Climbed a route on the Apron yesterday that isn't in the guidebook. It's about half way between Deidre and Bannana Peel, crosses over Sparrow. Fully bolted, pretty much a straight shot to Broadway... goes at 10 something. Nice route, although I didn't lead any of the pitches so I can't comment on the bolt placements.

 

Anyone know the name and grade?

[matt_m]

Might be Delicious Dimples which really links up some of sparrow and an older croft route (name escapes me) one or two moves in a channel makes it 10c - but its not very sustained.

[bigwalling]

http://gripped.com/forum/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=8&tid=6609

[Dru]

"Delicious Dimples" 10- basically a Barley retrobolt (Ok 5m left of) Black Bugs Blood

The other new Apron route from last fall is Over the Rainbow 5.9 which is squeezed in near Sickle.

[fern]

 

I have a hard time believing that in the 40 odd years since the first routes were done on the Apron that there is a single sqft of sub 5.11 rock anywhere on it that has not yet been climbed by someone running it out (consider that the hardest pitch in Squamish in the 1967 guide is a .10d pitch on the Apron, then rated 5.9). Which in my opinion makes these new generation routes at best unnecessary and at worst retro-bolted squeeze jobs.