PaulB Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Climbed a route on the Apron yesterday that isn't in the guidebook. It's about half way between Deidre and Bannana Peel, crosses over Sparrow. Fully bolted, pretty much a straight shot to Broadway... goes at 10 something. Nice route, although I didn't lead any of the pitches so I can't comment on the bolt placements. Anyone know the name and grade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Might be Delicious Dimples which really links up some of sparrow and an older croft route (name escapes me) one or two moves in a channel makes it 10c - but its not very sustained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 http://gripped.com/forum/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=8&tid=6609 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 "Delicious Dimples" 10- basically a Barley retrobolt (Ok 5m left of) Black Bugs Blood The other new Apron route from last fall is Over the Rainbow 5.9 which is squeezed in near Sickle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 I have a hard time believing that in the 40 odd years since the first routes were done on the Apron that there is a single sqft of sub 5.11 rock anywhere on it that has not yet been climbed by someone running it out (consider that the hardest pitch in Squamish in the 1967 guide is a .10d pitch on the Apron, then rated 5.9). Which in my opinion makes these new generation routes at best unnecessary and at worst retro-bolted squeeze jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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