Dreamer-GGB

[nlunstrum]

Have never been to darrington but know that Dreamer's a classic. what warm up routes would you suggest before Dreamer? My partner and I trad mid 10's comfortably but aren't slab savy. I have already checked out the darrington rock page, any of those routes good indications if we're ready for Dreamer?

 

Thanks, Nathan

[Gary_Yngve]

Silent Running and Total Soul on 3:00 Rock are well-protected 5.9-5.10 routes. The slabs on Dreamer will be easier but less protected (bolts every 10-15 feet for 5.9 and 20-25 feet for 5.8).

 

Careful rope management / pro placement is required on the crux 5.9 pitches to avoid unnecessary ropedrag or getting the rope stuck beneath the roof.

 

Expect on certain pitches to have to climb as much as 20 feet beyond a belay (on 5.7- terrain) before getting in your first piece.

 

If you can, choose a day that won't be scaldingly hot. Dreamer is south-facing.

[chucK]

Just about anything 5.9 or over at Three O'Clock Rock should get you well dialed in for the slabs on Dreamer. Broad Daylights -> Kone or Cornucopia will be good examples of the slabs, plus give you a feel for Darrington "cracks".

 

The crux of Dreamer is route-finding. Check out this cautionary tale by CC.com's poet laureate.

[fern]

 

Dreamer isn't really a slab climb - it's got lots of holds with all those chickenheads

[cracked]

Dreamer isn't really a slab climb - it's got lots of holds with all those chickenheads

Before the crack pitches there are NO holds on that route.

[chucK]

Depends on your definition of "hold" (and which variation you took).

[jhamaker]

If you are unfamiliar w/ regular rock climbing but climb 5.10, just spend a morning watching folks head up. Realy the only difficulty is finding the base of the rt. From the base, just follow the line of least resistance and best rock.

 

If you don't like run-out 5.7/5.8, bring a few 3.5 camalots for the blue flake? pitch.

 

And of course remember to bring a few doubles and lots of singles to reduce rope drag even though you have two ropes.

[mattp]

Unless you want to sew it up, you can get by with one each of camelots #1, #2 and #3 on that "blue crack," but it wouldn't hurt to have the #3.5. Most people use at least one of their larger pieces lower down on that pitch, where smaller pieces can be used instead.

[Gary_Yngve]

Yeah, the Blue Flake crack widens at one point, but a few feet higher it narrows down again.

[ScottP]

Dreamer isn't really a slab climb - it's got lots of holds with all those chickenheads

Yeah, lot's of chickenheads.

[RichardKorry]

Unless you want to sew it up, you can get by with one each of camelots #1, #2 and #3 on that "blue crack," but it wouldn't hurt to have the #3.5. Most people use at least one of their larger pieces lower down on that pitch, where smaller pieces can be used instead.

 

Matt is correct that you'll find many opportunities to use big stuff early in the pitch. For some reason I was convinced that the crack was going to be wires and not cams. So I ended up using most of my cams down low, got one cam in the start of the crack and ran it out pretty much to the belay. Altho the crack is solid and 5.7 I don't recommend doing what I did.

 

One other thing: if you decide to rap the route beware of the rope eating flake around the 2nd or 3rd belay.

[catbirdseat]

That rope eating flake is something else! It will swallow your entire rope. You'll be hating life if you rap past it without pulling it all out first, because it won't pull out from below, that's for sure.

[Greg_W]

Unless you want to sew it up, you can get by with one each of camelots #1, #2 and #3 on that "blue crack," but it wouldn't hurt to have the #3.5. Most people use at least one of their larger pieces lower down on that pitch, where smaller pieces can be used instead.

 

I remember leading this pitch thinking, "Okay, Matt said it takes #1, #2, #3 Camalots." I climbed the pitch and found that I placed them in exactly that order - that was good for a chuckle once I got to the belay.

[mattp]

It's not necessary, but double ropes helps on that pitch.

Greg here is about to plug in again, before moving right to the start of the "blue Crack."