China Bend?

[Greg_W]

What's the deal with this place? Is it worth going to?

 

Greg_W

[sobo]

Greg,

Mebbe you could email this guy. He might ask you to buy his book, or he may tell you what you want to know.

[Off_White]

I'm pretty sure Peter Puget has made at least one foray into the area. Looks sorta haarrrdddd to wimpy old me.

[Sabertooth]

If you are looking for juggy limestone with a larger variety of grades, check out Washington Rock (Metaline Falls). They have some nines to warm up on plus a bunch of tens and elevens, in addition to stuff up to 13+. Not all really hard stuff, like China Bend or Marcus. This cover photo was taken from a route at Metaline Falls.

 

[Greg_W]

Thanks, so am I to presume that most of what China Bend has to offer is pretty stiff stuff (i.e., 5.10 and up)? Are the moderates shitty? Thinking of hitting Minnehaha on Saturday and maybe CB on Sunday, unless it's not worth it.

[Sabertooth]

I'm pretty sure there is nothing below 5.11 at China Bend. Almost all of the routes are 12s and 13s.

 

It's a long drive, when there are better choices in town. If you like moderate sport (5.8 to 5.11s), Post Falls, in Quemlin Park, is the place to be. There are just tons of good quality sport climbs on nice granite over there. Another place to visit in Dishman. A small place, but it has the best quality rock in the area. Most of the routes are 11s. There is a 5.8, 2 9s, and a 10a over there too. The ratings are very stiff old school at Dishman. The route Chicken Spread (5.9) is the hardest 5.9 I've ever done.

 

Another spot that is very popular in town is Deep Creek. The rock is fractured angular basalt. The walls are overhanging with lots of stuff to pinch. I don't particularly care for the rock type, but the gym crowd loves it.

[Dane]

"The route Chicken Spread (5.9) is the hardest 5.9 I've ever done."

 

Ya, that was done when Easter Overhang was still 5.9 But you do need to stem a bit.

[pindude]

Greg,

Just got on this board after avoiding it for many days. If you get a chance to read this, I'll be out at Minne on Saturday, with a Spo Mounties class, at least for the morning. We generally don't take up all the good climbs, so there should be lots of choice climbs open....but in particular I'd be glad to give you a quick tour and point you toward some appropriate routes. Ask anyone for Steve and someone should point you toward me.

 

Re. China Bend, it's too hard for me in my fat middle age--hopefully you got some beta from Marty Bland, who probably knows it best. If not, Mountain Goat Outfitters (NW corner of Sprague & Division) or Mtn Gear (2002 N. Division) climbing folks will have current beta.

[Greg_W]

with a Spo Mounties class, at least for the morning. We generally don't take up all the good climbs,

 

Actually, you do, but that's cool. We were there on Sat. afternoon but found a spot to get vertical.

 

Sunday, we spent a few hours at Tum Tum Canyon. We liked this place - granite domes, lots of features, AND NO PEOPLE!!! A. & I agreed that we'd come back if the opportunity arose. A decent place for spring/fall cragging; I could see it definitely getting pretty hot in the summer. Beautiful area and view of the lake. And did I mention no people were there?

 

The folks at Mountain Gear were helpful, as always. I noticed that Bland's guide doesn't have any info on Tum Tum, but the old guide does (and it's free!). Thanks MtnGear people!

[Sabertooth]

Cool.

 

Did you like R.H. Factor at Tum Tum? (the 4 star route)

 

What did you climb at Minne? Anything you liked?

[Greg_W]

Didn't hit that. We were short on time, so we only got a few pitches in. Feeling kinda lazy. I don't remember what we climbed at Minne; something on Don Quixote, a 5.7 and TR'd a .10 (ZigZag Crack?) next to it. Mountain School gapers were all over the place - worse than any Mountie invasion I've experienced. 'Bout to set up to lead this crack on the Main face and, bloop, down drops a TR. FUCK! I just about resorted to bouldering, but snapped out of it.

[NYC007]

Did you get to climb classic cracks at tum tum? there are in the back

[Greg_W]

Did you get to climb classic cracks at tum tum? there are in the back

 

Nope, no time. We climbed a casual 5.6, "You Name It", and then wandered over to Pictograph dome and climbed some thing on the arete on the lefthand side. Lots of other fun looking lines on Pictograph to come back for. We'll go back, I'm sure, this fall.

[Sabertooth]

Yeah, that sucks. Fortunately, they never go back to the Secondary Face or Don Quixote Face. It is quieter and nicer back there anyways.

 

Z crack is a good route. Too bad you didn't hop on Don (the overhanging double cracks). That's the best route I've done in the Spokane area.

[Greg_W]

Watched a guy lead it; it looked tough. He was worked for sure. Nice looking route, though.

[Dane]

That's the best route I've done in the Spokane area.

 

DQ is a nice route but awful short. I always thought the best routes in the city limits were @ Dishman. The direct version of Rock 106 and Firestone would get my vote.

[NYC007]

Klingon is a cool route, same with touch of grey

[Marty]

The Spokane area really does not hold that many quality routes in the 5.10 and below range. Minne has a few, Dishman has a couple and Post Falls probably the most. Rocks of Sharon could have a bunch more but there's a lack of development. Same thing with some of the limestone crags around. Deep Creek is to chossy at the lower angles. However, Banks Lake does have a bunch and could host a lot more but someone has to do a lot of cleaning and bolting, etc.