matt_m Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 Climb: Squamish-Angels Crest, Peasants Route et al Date of Climb: 4/10/2004 Trip Report: Awesome weather lead me and many others up to Squam last weekend. Sat. we got on the Apron early to get some "first of the year" outdoor pitches in. Ran up a climb called "Delicious Dimples". Heads straight up of the ledge right of Diedre crossing Banana Peel and incorporating two other routes pitches (Need to go look them up...) Well bolted and newly scrubbed - Good stuff. A little bit of a squeeze but the "dimples" stuff was fun. Down to the car, ran to Climb On to grab some offset aliens (in stock!) then right back to the base of the grand. Saw one party just heading up the Split Pillar but we were there to do some of the lower classics I had not done yet. Exasperator had a friendly group on it so we jumped on Peasants Route per their recommendation. Good two pitches - clean with good thin corner climbing. One or two damp spots but nothing to fret over. 2 raps with a single 60m. There's a bolted line on the arete just right of the route that looked interesting and not all that hard but Exasperator was free so it was time to step up. I'd been wanting to get on this climb since my first time in squam last year but never did for various reasons (Grand Wall and Cruel Shoes twice including being at the base of the split pillar and watching David G fall to the ground) Anyway, partner led to the first anchors and gets pumped out of his mind - I lower him clean the gear to the 1st bolts. Next pitch worked me for all it's worth - man those are thin finger pockets! 10c! Hell - I thought the Grand was easier than that. GREAT CLIMBING THOUGH - Bring small TCU (00,0,1) and small nuts - #1 camalots for the top. Ran back to the car and then back to the Apron for a fast run up Diedre - Soloed the first two pitches them simuled past a cool party (thanks for letting us pass!) through the dihedrals. Never done Diedre but it seemed like a low angle version of Unfinished Symphony's two 10d pitches - Good Stuff! Day Two - Angels Crest. Leave the apron parking lot around 9:20am and start heading up trail off the road. Soon discover (like many I'm sure) that we took one trail too early and so got to check out the base of the Sheriff as we hiked to the buttress start. 4th class to the start ledge and start everything off with a cool Tree shimmy. The 10a traverse was great and everything was DRY. Several more pitches of good climbing (green as the book says but adventuresome and fun nonetheless) brings us to the forest below the 1st raps. The trail splits right and left - go left - right just cliffs out. Climb along the ridge with great views into North Gully and down onto the sound. Finish up with an awesome top out and then for fun we ran down the backside trail (gets us to the pub faster!) Approach Notes: DON'T try and descend the North Gully - Friends of ours did it the day before and said it's a bona-fide death gully - way worse than it used to be. took them 5 hours or so! Quote
fern Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 thanks for the TR! you're not supposed to tell people about the #1 camalot sized crack at the top of Exasperator - you'll blow their onsight! Quote
daler Posted April 17, 2004 Posted April 17, 2004 Whats up with the tape gloves Yo!!! Its squamish granite. You can't gobie up if you try!!!! You need to read Micah Dash's glove commentary in the new Creek guidebook! Quote
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