Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
robertm

[TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004

Recommended Posts

Climb: Brothers Traverse-SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse

 

Date of Climb: 4/11/2004

 

Trip Report:

Der Wanderer and I headed over to the Brothers to climb the Brothers. I have looked at them long enough so I decided it was a good weekend to give them a go. We approached on Saturday to Lunch Ledge and bivied. From there we climbed the S. Brother SE ridge climbing a series of gullies and a 1/2 pitch of super solid 5th class rock to put us on the S brother summit ridge. The traverse from the S. Brother to the N. Brother had steep exposed soft snow that improved on the west aspects. Rock pro came in real handy to set reliable simul anchors. It took us about 3 hours between the peaks. Note: Finding the lower approach over to the "Great Basin" to do the traverse N. to S. is really involved. This is how we ended up climbing the SE ridge. The rock over there is really pretty damn good. This is a real classic as far as I am concerned... challenging, great views and rewarding summits.

 

Gear Notes:

set of med to large chocks (used frequently)

8.5 mil rope

long slings

pickets - snow too soft to use

 

Approach Notes:

No snow until 3000 feet. Soft snow above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice Climb! You know, it's been mentioned in previous posts that the guidebook committee for the Olympics is presently working on the new edition. The Brothers Traverse was something that they felt could use an improved write-up. Robert, would you be willing to contribute?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be happy to contribute. Our experience on the route might be different than some parties due to the fact that we did the climb in April (snow cover). The mountaineers description for access to the Great Basin is so misleading that it would be better if you had no description at all. From lunch ledge (~5300) ascend right and up eastward several hundered yards. You should be no higher than 5800 feet to find the gap to head into the great basin (it is farther than you think).

 

That being said I think the traverse from the S to N isn't all that bad (summer might be a different story). Also, SE ridge of S. brother is a pretty cool option rather than the standard S. Coulier. (my .02)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, again: Good Job, My girlfriend and I were the ones you ran into on the way out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Wayne, I thought I recognized you when I saw you at the lake but I couldn't recall until a few steps away...I saw your Pickets enchainment slideshow a few months ago. Good seeing you there. cool.gif

-Theron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×