RuMR Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 This was generated from a pm i received...after reading it, i got to thinking... Do you think its possible to climb v12 based only on serious training? Or do you think you must also have some "raw material" as well? Beating a v12 into the ground DOES count w/ regards to my question as i view it as part and parcel to training...even if its a "silly" move... Just curious...not trying to start a flame war... Quote
cman Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 i think raw material is definitely needed. i think the majority of climbers, myself included, could never climb one no matter how much they trained. it is more likely that young climbers, i.e. teenagers, could train/climb tons and get to that level. even a one move wonder has one hellish move. Quote
willstrickland Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 If you're talking training your way into climbing "at the V12 level" then no, I think genetics come into play well before that. If you're talking about just finding a single v12 to get up, probably. Surely there's a piece of rock out there that would get "V12" that comes down to nailing a one-in-a-million move not dependent on strength. I think anyone can train their way to V5, most to V7, some to V10, and very very few beyond that. Of course if you go to the Happy Boulders, you too could be climbing V10 without extra training cause they're soft like butter. Quote
RuMR Posted March 26, 2004 Author Posted March 26, 2004 If you're talking training your way into climbing "at the V12 level" then no, I think genetics come into play well before that. If you're talking about just finding a single v12 to get up, probably. Surely there's a piece of rock out there that would get "V12" that comes down to nailing a one-in-a-million move not dependent on strength. I think anyone can train their way to V5, most to V7, some to V10, and very very few beyond that. Of course if you go to the Happy Boulders, you too could be climbing V10 without extra training cause they're soft like butter. Quote
Rodchester Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 (edited) i think raw material is definitely needed. i think the majority of climbers, myself included, could never climb one no matter how much they trained. I bet if I had one of those bolt guns that Stallone had in Cliffhanger I could AID it. After all, AID is still climbing. Oh no, that's right, Chouinard says bouldering is not climbing. Further, I bet Dan could not only do it, but become the first to speed climb a V12. OK enough kidding. I think it takes a lot of everything to send a V12. Trainining in technique and physical as well as mental. And yes, you need to have some natural ability in my mind. But then again, maybe I'm just weak-minded? Edited March 26, 2004 by Rodchester Quote
Dru Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 i think raw material is definitely needed. i think the majority of climbers, myself included, could never climb one no matter how much they trained. I bet if I had one of those bolt guns that Stallone had in Cliffhanger I could AID it. After all, AID is still climbing. Oh no, that's right, Chouinard says bouldering is not climbing. Further, I bet Dan could not only do it, but become the first to speed climb a V12. OK enough kidding. I think it takes a lot of everything to send a V12. Trainining in technique and physical as well as mental. And yes, you need to have some natural ability in my mind. But then again, maybe I'm just weak-minded? what's the slowest anyone's ever done a V12 - 30 seconds? Quote
EWolfe Posted March 26, 2004 Posted March 26, 2004 When I was in Hueco Tanks for 2 months in '96, I saw Fred Nicole just float Martini Roof right (he had it wired), and saw another person working Diaphanous Sea (both V12). Both are unbelievable climbs, and at that level it seems a combination of training, genetics, and drive. Truly spectacular to watch. My $.02 Erik Quote
RuMR Posted March 26, 2004 Author Posted March 26, 2004 yah...i sat under that thing for 45 minutes years and years ago...just touched the holds, didn't try it...those holds are minimal even on a 100 degree wall, say nothing of a horizontal roof...truly amazing and beautiful...would actually love to see someone capable of that route climbing it... Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 V12 ... what is V12? This grade is so hard as to be meaningless, at least to this small and humble-type Doctor. Who knows? And is there such a thing as a non-freak-strong-dependent V12? Seems like most, if not all bouldering kind of funnels into the strong-bad category after a while. Look at all the hard shit at Joe's, or the Buttermilks or something. Any of those problems seem to not require savage burlosity? Exactly. Quote
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