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TimL

Gunks Route Recommendations

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I'm heading to the Gunks this weekend for the first time and I know a bunch of you are from the East Coast(RuMR) wave.gif. I was wondering if I could get route recommendations on the classics from super easy like 5.3 for the girlfriends first time on rock to 5.12 so I can find something to monkey around on. Thanks for any and all beta. bigdrink.gif

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high e is a classic

 

yellow wall is awesome...and spicy

 

Don't worry about 5.12 there if you are just there for the weekend...the .11's are great...

 

Get ready for waaaaay steeper climbing than the PNW... wink.gif

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www.gunks.com - The "must do" list includes classics for all of the grades. At this time of year, you might even be able to get on some of them. Have fun. - AOC

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I agree with RUMR bring the tri cams pink and red I found the most useful.

 

Directissma 5.9

Directississama (sp?) 5.10

Modern Times 5.8++ (one of my favorites)

Gelsa 5.4

Hounds of Baskerville 5.10

Shockley Ceiling 5.6

CCK 5.7 or 5.9 (direct)

Nosedive 5.10

Retribution 5.10

 

Damn dude there is a ton of classics there, this just a tiny few that I can think of. Have fun. Oyyeah if it is raining on head to the old lime mine. They house hard overhanging, sort of grungy sport lines, but if you are desperate to climb they are there. Also there are a lot of lines that stay reasonably dry even when it is raining Bonnies Roof being one of them.

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I was wondering if I could get route recommendations on the classics from super easy like 5.3 for the girlfriends first time on rock ...

 

For good girlfriend routes and stuff to get your feet wet on in the Near Trapps and a bit further down the road:

 

Tipsy Trees (.3)

Minty (.3)

High Exposure - which lives up to its name!! (.6)

Whats that Hans Kraus classic? Horseman? (.5)

 

Do those routes, then re-assess whether you want to get on anything harder! wink.gif

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Any of the classic .10s will satisfy your craving for "5.12" climbing.

 

Some I don't think were mentioned (with my own stars):

V-3, 5.8 **

Three pines, dangler variation 5.8 (super picture spot)

Birdland, 5.9

White Pillar, 5.8 ***

CCK Direct, 5.8(+?)

Doubleissima, 5.8

Something interesting, 5.8 **

Modern Times, 5.9 ****

Fat City, 5.10

Directississima, 5.10

 

 

For the girlfriend:

Baby - 5.5

Easy O - 5.2

Disneyland - 5.6 (2nd (3rd) pitch spectacular)

Hawk - 5.5

Souther Pillar - 5.2

Three pines - 5.3

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If you want to keep your girlfriend I would not take her on High Exposure, that is if she is only comfortable around 5.3. It's made 5.9 leaders weak in the knees.

 

Easy Overhang 5.2(best gunks intro), Easy V 5.3, Northern Pillar 5.4?, Horseman (easy 5.5 - good Gunks intro) Gelsa, all good for the girlfriend.

 

For you:

 

Cascading Crystal Kalidascope 5.9?

High Corner 5.7?

Overhand variation of 3 Pines 5.8

Son of Easy O 5.8

Open Cockpit 5.11

Doug's Roof 5.11 - if you pull this let me know!!!

Nector Vector 5.11

Madame Grumbumb's wulst 5.6(?) amazing exposure

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I was wondering if I could get route recommendations on the classics from super easy like 5.3 for the girlfriends first time on rock ...

 

For good girlfriend routes and stuff to get your feet wet on in the Near Trapps and a bit further down the road:

 

Tipsy Trees (.3)

Minty (.3)

High Exposure - which lives up to its name!! (.6)

Whats that Hans Kraus classic? Horseman? (.5)

 

Do those routes, then re-assess whether you want to get on anything harder! wink.gif

 

Horseman was my third lead, my first 'onsight' (funny to think of a 5 being an onsight lead). It was March and I was eager to get on the rock despite it was 30's and snow flying and on the ground. I was so sketched, the hold were big but my fingers were frozen and I could feel anything. I thought for sure I was going to pitch and have my first leader fall.

 

I really didn't notice the part where it was your girlfriends first time climbing, I probably wouldn't take here up High E. Like someone else said it is for 5.9 climbers great exposure first time doing it is pretty scarry since the crux figuring your way out from underneath a roof 200 feet off the deck. Once you have done that you have to beat the burn on the slightly overhanging wall to the top. Such and awesome route.

 

Oh yeah a 5.12 to work on do Kansas City. Your girlfriend can belay on the ground, it is a very short approach (one of the first climbs in the Near Trapps), and it is stout 15 foot roof with hard fingers.

Edited by ken4ord

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