[TR] Rabbit ears - Columbia River Gorge- choss scramble 3/21/2004

[cluck]

Climb: Rabbit ears - Columbia River Gorge-choss scramble

 

Date of Climb: 3/21/2004

 

Trip Report:

In 70 degree sunshine, headed up Table Mountain trail to recon the Rabbit Ears (also known as Sacagawea/Papoose Rock) with my pal Cluck, the stuffed mascot climbing chicken.

 

45 minute hike got us to the intersection with the shorter more commonly used hikers trail we used and the longer PCT approach where we turned off towards a rock that looked very little to me like a brave Indian explorer and her infant child. 15-20 minutes of wandering, occassionaly passing by someone's ancient flagging, we were at the base of the gully.

 

Portland Rock book describes it as 85' of of steep dirt and so it was. Hands and feet pulling at dirt, moss, treess and the like. Two steps up and one slide down. You guys know the drill.

 

From a scenic little gap, the scambling began. About 3rd class and not too exposed - but just as loose as one of Shred's craps - about 80' up to another viewpoint. This one was equiped with some very solid looking bolts for rap anchors which I was happy to use on the way down.

 

Next was a wander on an exposed crappy loose ledge to the right to some more 3rd class choss. Headed up this past one old fixed pin. I put the location of this pin in the brain bank for future attempts as this pile of junk that is doing an impression of a rodent's ears didn't have many obvious gear placements that would be worth stopping to place (the pin might be manky too, but could be better than nothing).

 

Got to a place just below the saddle between the ears that was cruxy for me in free solo mode. Only a short move of about 5.4-5.5, but since all the holds looked portable and the obvious place for a high boot was covered in loose crap and slopy too, I took pause before continuing on.

 

At this point Cluck, who had been leisurely riding on my pack the entire time, start to call me a pussy and volunteered to unclip, solo to the top and take a glory shot of himself using the timer on my digital camera. Figured it would be OK to hand over the lead to a stuffed animal at this point, even though I though he was brave for wanting to send, unroped, hauling a camera that outweighed him by at least 4 times. But, Cluck is hardcore after all and that is what we expect from him.

 

As I started to hand over the camera, I realized that I had foolishly left the flash medi card back home, which made the glory shot impossible. Hearing that, Cluck thumbed his nose at a 5.4 exposed scamble and opted to just hang out on my pack and see if I would suck it up and climb or not.

 

Even with Cluck taunts raining down on me, mostly questioning the size of my manhood, I decided to turn tail maybe 50 vert. feet from the top of the ears and live to climb another day.

 

Since I want to go back another day and scratch the top of the bunny's ears, hoping some one will reply or PM me with beta for the top. I heard the climbing from between the ears to the top was on better rock and no big deal but have no beta on if a rap past my "danger crux" is possible or if I have to suck it up for a loose exposed down climb. Anything reasonable to build an anchor for a rap off the top? Surely Wayne of some of you other "adventure scramble Gorge hard men" must have a little knowledge to share? If nothing else, whomever labored so hard for the rap anchors must have this choos heap wired.

 

Nice day to be out of the house.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Next time will bring live partner and rock rack.

 

Approach Notes:

It is easy to get from PCT / hiker's trail merge over to the base of the bunny ears this time of year. No time for bushes to grow yet so no bush whacking required. Some interesting giant boulders that would be great to send if someone cleaned them and they were made of reasonable rock, not choss

[nonanon]

Nice TR, but dood… your partner is a chicken!

 

There's at least one medium-sized cam placement past that pin. The route (such as it is…) continues up along the left edge of the rubble gully until you can traverse right into the gully of boulders beneath the ears and climb the last fifteen or twenty feet to the bunny's head. The anchors are on the East ear.

 

(The Rabbit Ears aren't in Oregon either!)

[MtnHigh]

Great TR

Shred will be very interested in this beta for his much anticipated book, Selected Choss Climbs in Oregon

[iain]

be sure he includes Oregon's classic ski descents on Mt. St. Helens

[cluck]

(The Rabbit Ears aren't in Oregon either!)

 

Thanks for the beta. You are right of course, the ears are all Washington. However, with the proximity to PDX and the fact that there is so much more and better climbing in Washington, figured this post would be lost and a waste for most of our Seattle area brothers and sisters to the North

[cluck]

Went back yesterday with a rope and 2 partners and got up the bunny ears. While the climb is certainly on poor quality rock and isn't very aesthetic, the summit was pretty neat and it beats a day not climbing.

 

Only one low 5th class move that was tough only because it was the key traverse into the gully between the ears, on portable holds and a little exposed. Got an OK cam in to add some protection (psychological only maybe). Easy scramble up to the higher east ear.

 

As mentioned in Nonanon's post, good rap anchor on East ear. 2X60M takes you all the way back to the top of the dirt gully.

 

Finished off a day "barn yard" climbing in the Gorge by zipping up super easy route on Rooster Rock and watching the sunset from there.

 

I'll post a couple pics of rabbit ears in a bit.

[wayne]

Surely Wayne of some of you other "adventure scramble Gorge hard men" must have a little knowledge to share? If nothing else, whomever labored so hard for the rap anchors must have this choos heap wired.

 

 

Whens someone gonna step up and do St Peters Dome.? Come on you Dodge chasers!

[cluck]

Oh yeah.... the pics I promised:

 

The Bunny:

 

Easy 1st Pitch:

 

Looking up at the belay anchor on top of the bunny's head:

 

Scratching the bunny's ear:

 

Cluck taunting us for taking the easy route:

[letsroll]

I was wondering if that was you guys headed up to the ears. I was with a group of Mazamas headed up to Table Mt. Saw you just before you headed off trail on the way in. I was helping out with thier basic class, newbie conditioning hike. Glad you guys had a good climb.

[cluck]

Yep lets roll, that was us. As long as it took us to climb was surprised to see you guys on the descent. How come your hike took so long? Did S.L. stop along the way to give everyone his famous tick lecture or something?

 

It was pretty windy up on the ears... Windy up on Table too?

 

Was also wondering where you guys parked? Didn't see enough cars at the lot by the powerlines where I normally go in to handle the Zama herd you were with.

[letsroll]

Holly cow so you know S.L.. Small world. It was windy up on table as well, but you could get out of it. On the top we did the tick lecture as well as some compass work for the newbies. We parked at the resort, our hike leader (person other than S.L.) only knew that way up.

[rbw1966]

Surely Wayne of some of you other "adventure scramble Gorge hard men" must have a little knowledge to share? If nothing else, whomever labored so hard for the rap anchors must have this choos heap wired.

 

 

Whens someone gonna step up and do St Peters Dome.? Come on you Dodge chasers!

 

I guess I better dig out the Dodge book.