Guye Peak Question

[aclimb]

Alright, I know a lot of people have written about Guye Peak, and I spent a while going through a bunch of the posts last night to try and answer the question I had there first, but sure didn't see anything about it. I could have missed it, but I thought I'd risk the public bashing and ask anyway. I was planning on a little jaunt up Guye this weekend, but a buddy of mine said that at the top there is a nasty dangerous traverse, and that I should avoid doing the climb unless I know someone who has done the descent before. Anyway, I haven't heard about this from anyone else, or read it. I trust this guy, but if he is wrong...I may have to end the friendship. Gracias amigos.

[To_The_Top]

If you go up between Snoqualmie and Guye from Alpental, reach the col, turn south there shouldnt be a dangerous traverse as I recall (did it in the fall). This is a bit of a hike/scramble and great views. I'd consider an ice axe in winter, but shouldnt be a real big deal, and keep in mind [cornice].

TTT

[Edit] Yes, like Klenke said crampons too while doing any winter climb they should be brought.

Edited March 12, 2004 by To_The_Top

[SmilingWhiteKnuckles]

I assume you're thinking of doing the South Rib route? If so, this is a fun and challenging mixed route with many possible variations.

 

There may be a stout move at the top (depending on conditions), but it's not a gnarly ridge traverse. The stout move I'm thinking of is right before the north summit--a short pitch of 5.7 rock/snow. The start is vertical then you move up a slab which is probably snow covered. A month ago, the snow was deep and firm and it wasn't hard.

 

Once you make the South Summit, I do recommend going over all three summits (and pulling the "move") so as to avoid descending any of the steep gullies down the east face, and following the hiker/snowshoe path north to the saddle between Guye and Snoqualmie, then right (east) into Commonwealth basin and south on a trail out (depends where you park).

 

I've always been really psyched to have pitons on this route.

 

Have fun!

[klenke]

If you come from the Cave Ridge saddle (the saddle between Snoqualmie & Guye) and want to go to the highest point of Guye, then there is a traversing issue.

 

From the saddle, you climb up through semi-forest to its top at about where the crags start. It will then be necessary to use a system of two or more gullies on the east side of the crest in order to get around the crags, of which I think there were two between you and the summit (which is merely a mound of snow with some small scrub trees, or it could be more rocky in March than when we did it in January).

 

From the top of the semi-forested slope, find a gully that goes down about 50 feet so that you can then traverse south around the first crag. After the traverse, go up a gully back to the crest. At the next crag (if there is another crag, I honestly can't remember), repeat the process.

 

I would advise crampons (and obviously an ice-axe) for the gullies because, with the recent cold, clear nights, they'll no doubt NOT hold soft, plunging snow. Depending on your experience/comfort level, you may also wish to bring a 30m rope and picket and possibly some pro. The gullies are sufficiently steep that, in icy conditions, you could go a long way...maybe all the way down to Commonwealth Creek.

 

In the picture below taken from the east, Cave Ridge Saddle is on the right. You can see the semi-forested slope leading up to the first crag. The summit is the left-most point.

[slothrop]

I've traversed very close to the crest and crossed over to the west side just south of the north summit: one slab move to get over to the west side, traverse, then one move up and over. The gullies on the east side are sucky... well, they were in summer and fall when I've been there.

[aclimb]

Thanks for the info, I am planning on the South Rib, I probably should have mentioned that in the beginning. I'm going for it.

[catbirdseat]

Get an earlier start than Leejams and I. 10:00 is not an early start.

[leejams]

The gullies on the east side are sucky... well, they were in summer and fall when I've been there.

 

very good advice, they are even worse in winter. But it's all good. A very fun climb and not sure why it isn't done much more.

[Ben]

The gullies on the east side are sucky... well, they were in summer and fall when I've been there.

 

Actually, I think the east gully in solid conditions is kind of a fun and moderate winter climb. It's also a decent and fast way to descend after climbing the S rib.

[Alpine_Tom]

If you're traversing from the S Rib and descending Cave Ridge, you should have a good look at the drawing on p.165 of the current Brown CAG. When I did it (in summer) I was pretty baffled; the traverse looked way more dire than I'd expected, but if you follow the dotted line, it's pretty straightforward. Bring crampons and an ice axe, as mentioned above.