chucK Posted May 16, 2002 Share Posted May 16, 2002 OK, so I just got done minorly flaming some guy in the cordelette-racking thread, and I got thinking about what exactly I could do to speed up my climbing. After about 2 seconds of contemplation I realized that I need a way to effeciently overcome bouts of Big Ledge Syndrome. BLS occurs when you're at a nice restful, secure, piece-at-your-chest, hold or stance. Above is a more scary, committing, unknown, or just-plain-hard section. The major symptom of BLS is paralysis and time loss. Usually I'll get to the stopping point and then figure out what I need to do very quickly, but the relative comfort of the nice stance compared to the upcoming difficulties get hold of me. I'll hem and haw, trying to find some non-extistent easier, more secure, way. Eventually I commit to the moves I intially figured out, but in the meantime, many minutes have ticked away and my belayer is now soundly dozing and/or silently pissed. You guys 'n' gals ever experience BLS? Anybody got any cures or tricks to beat it? I'm working on it. Later, Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 16, 2002 Share Posted May 16, 2002 lead weed, or so i have heard i think another similaR dysfunction would be the S.A.E.A. (stop at every anchor) i find myself falling for this ailment on longer or scarrier routes. complications might be more pitches and a disgruntled parter as they always seem to have to lead the crux right off of the belay!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 16, 2002 Share Posted May 16, 2002 I was experiencing a bout of BLS right off the belay. Lambone just said to me, "Just think how much better your life will be after you commit to that move." You know what, he was right. Those are the moments in climbing that require the most focus and attention- which is a big part of what climbing is about, and what separates it from 'vertical hiking'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted May 16, 2002 Share Posted May 16, 2002 Yeah man, I get that affliction too. My method is to use the 4 breath method. I hit the ledge, count off four deep full breaths while looking at the moves and launch on the conclusion of the fourth. Seems to work for me unless I'm feeling pumped, and then I hang out until recovered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted May 16, 2002 Share Posted May 16, 2002 I call it ledge-itis (my friend RumR used to say that years ago). No real recommendations except I tell myself that I am just being lazy and that the little holds above will be easy too, so get on them. hgb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 16, 2002 Share Posted May 16, 2002 with the guys I climb with, standing there looking at the climb will earn you 5' of belay slack for every 10 seconds you are stationary. works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 If my gear is good, I look at each cruxy move as an off-the-ground boulder problem, avoiding thinking about what is beneath my feet. If my gear isn't good, I whine and moan alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 No real way to deal with it. But I find that the effects are mitigated by a patient partner fully aware that If he bitches to much, he might just have to lead it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 here's a link to a peice at another website that speaks to this matter of standing around. http://www.camp4.com/index.php?newsid=321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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