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Posted

Climb: Das Toof-NE Slab

 

Date of Climb: 2/29/2004

 

Trip Report:

NE Slab is climbable, though I wouldn't call it "in". Some ice, some nice firm snow/neve/styrofoam and plenty of snow and thin ice over compact rock. 2.5 pitches to the ridge, one simul pitch to the top. Ended the first pitch at the tree across the gully from the fixed station, the second pitch at the big dead snag.

 

Gear Notes:

Didn't use any screws. Small nuts, small cams, one kb, and some medium cams (WC 2.0, 2.5).

 

Approach Notes:

Good for approaching, bad for skiing.

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Posted

Way to go !! thumbs_up.gif

 

Was up there saturday and took a look at it, since my partner hadn't done any alpine before we decided against it and did the s.face instead.

 

Looked like there was a lot of coverage, was that all powder snow, or was any of it neve?

Posted
Looked like there was a lot of coverage, was that all powder snow, or was any of it neve?

 

Being a pretty inexperienced ice climber, I'll show my ignorance. What is neve? Someone used the term when we climbed the NEB of Chair 2 weekends ago. I assumed it was the firmly frozen snow that wasn't quite ice, but held tool placements firmly. (heat shield on)

Posted

You got it.

 

I'll leave it to CBS to give you the official density measurements and such...

 

"...compact snow weighing between 0.6 and 0.8g/cubic centimeter is considered 'neve' whereas .... blah blah blah".

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