"New" route at The Pearly Gates

[slaphappy]

"Dribble" 5.8+ G/1" - B/3 RS/165'

 

Dribble starts just right and slightly above The Dog Ate My Topo behind a large fire scorched tree.

 

Route: Friction up to the first bolt located in a bulge on a smooth stretch of stone. Climb slightly left on good face holds and then back right over the top of the bolt to a short finger crack. Jam crack to an overlap leading to a large clean well featured slab. Climb slab using 2 bolts and small horizontals for protection, heading a bit left to a good stance and a two bolt anchor.

 

Descent: Rappel from anchors to the ledge above The Dog Ate My Topo using caution it is more than 100' to the chains, but the station can be scrambled too easily. Rap to ground 100'.

 

Note: The route was not cleaned, done on lead, and drilled by hand. Expect some dirt and 5/16" button head bolts.

 

Anyone climb it late last year? Rating? Any quality what-so-ever?

 

-slap

[backcountrydog]

were 5/16 used instead of 3/8 cause it was bolted on lead?

[fredrogers]

Nope. but I've done Dog Ate my topo 4-5 times. Fun route.

 

I'll look for it once the slabs dry out.

[slaphappy]

were 5/16 used instead of 3/8 cause it was bolted on lead?

 

Yes, and by hand.

 

[catbirdseat]

I wish I had known about this route. I might have tried it, as it was crowded up there on Saturday. There were a bunch of newbies in tow. Several times, I saw climbers leaving gear on routes instead of cleaning them. The leader would clean on rappel because the second didn't know how to clean gear. It would tie up the route for an extra 15 minutes, which isn't a lot, but when it is that crowded it makes a difference.

 

I led Celestial Groove, 5.9, which for someone like me (just getting into 5.9s) was a real trip. Damn, that start is hard! I wasn't all that thrilled about having to rely totally on an Orange Alien for the first 15 ft.

 

It was windy that day and it was difficult to hear. My partner and I had a miscommunication and he started climbing before he was on belay. He fell trying to get my Alien out and hit the ground, slightly injuring his ankle. The fact that he sucked it up and cleaned the route shows what a great partner he is.

 

Someone ought to bring a Pulaski and dig out that stump that lies right in the landing zone.

[slaphappy]

A #2 Camalot fits nicely in the starting hand crack and still aloows you to jam through. Nice work, that's my favorite crack route up there. Golden Delicious is another fun 8+ deal that rarely has traffic.

 

* oh, and the large burnt tree that used to be in front of Dribble is now a large stump, it blew down this past winter.

[glacier]

Been up there a couple of times this year - a nice selection of routes through the grades - Anyone else find any poison ivy/oak up there? I got a bad case around Memorial Day, but didn't notice any 'leaves of three' the last ime I was up there.

[catbirdseat]

I never noticed any poison ivy. If it was there I would have broken out in a rash by now.

[MervGriffin]

"Someone ought to bring a Pulaski and dig out that stump that lies right in the landing zone."

 

Climbing can be, like, SO annoying and inconvenient! While you're at it, how about a picnic table and a BBQ pit? Darn nature!

[slaphappy]

"Someone ought to bring a Pulaski and dig out that stump that lies right in the landing zone."

 

Climbing can be, like, SO annoying and inconvenient! While you're at it, how about a picnic table and a BBQ pit? Darn nature!

 

Take a hike, clown.

[MervGriffin]

Take a hike, clown.

 

A guy named "Slaphappy" is calling someone a clown???

[ashw_justin]

No, come on guys! Merv, feel free to post as many female volleyball photos as you want.

[slaphappy]

 

Always said: "I'm just a clown in a dude suit..."

 

but keep your crap outta my serious climbing type thread! this is the rockclimbing forum, no spray!

[Crackbolter]

I remember the rope up.....LOL!

 

Are you CRACKBOLTER????? Who me?

 

And who are you???.....

[RuMR]

I wish I had known about this route. I might have tried it, as it was crowded up there on Saturday. There were a bunch of newbies in tow. Several times, I saw climbers leaving gear on routes instead of cleaning them. The leader would clean on rappel because the second didn't know how to clean gear. It would tie up the route for an extra 15 minutes, which isn't a lot, but when it is that crowded it makes a difference.