erik Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 bone, your expertise surpasses you..... two of my partners are 5'4" one can climb a5 the other one cannot. so in essence they should make a new placement once you have removed all the fixed junk?? i do not get that. they are stading in the hero loops and still cannot reach the next placement?? what are they to do??? drill??? sounds like a bad plan....what about tat on lower outs on pendos?? fixed gear is fixed for a reason, to minimize the harm done to the stone....though granted in some cases it comes to not being able to clean it.....but for th most part i believe that it serves a good purpose....and you keep metioning trade routes.....they are trade routes for a reason, but agian the definition of a trade route is subjective...i know YOU can handle yourself accordingly, but someone like myself who is pretty much a novice aider/climber still considers these passe' routes as a challenge and exciting..... your aesthic concerns are valid..but your ideas are only half thoughtout.....preserving as much rock in as close as natural should be the game. that is what clean climbing is all about right?? just some ideas......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 All I'm sayin is that lots of times fixed junk just clutters a route. It does'nt need to be there, but most people just leave it. The West Face of the Leaning Tower is a prime example. The big roof up there takes bomber clean gear all the way through, but the entire thing is fixed, so you can do it about ten minutes. Same with the Sheild roof. I agree that some fixed gear is good, like pendis and lower-outs etc. But does every piece need to be laced up with multiple strands of crappy webbing. Not usualy. Take this for example, I've come up to many belays in yosemity that have a ten - 15 foot random chord hanging from a bolt. Why? So you can skip the last three moves. Why would someone just leave that there for the next climber to deal with. I haven't done Town Crier, only seen it from below. I saw lots of long runners hanging off the the pins under the roof. Why are they there? Those move don't look that spaced out...Maybe I'm wrong, I don't know. I'm no expert aid climber, mearly mediocer, but if the pins are fixed, why not have to get up high to reach them, it's part of the fun. My point is that if everyone leaves something fixed on a route, we won't have to carry any gear in 10 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 14, 2002 Share Posted May 14, 2002 Sorry Lambone, I felt like stirring the pot a little, and, well, you just make yourself an easy target sometimes. quote: Originally posted by Lambone: .....I haven't done Town Crier.... THEN WHY ARE YOU BITCHEN ABOUT IT? Are you really that good of a climber that you can see from the ground when fixed pieces aren't necesary?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 Whatever, I'm not bitching about anything. Maybe you only skimmed over what we've been talking about, but Town Crier was merely one example of a common issue in the evolution of popular aid climbs. I have no real personal attachment to Town Crier in particular, I've been speaking about aid climbs in general, using Town Crier as an example with the information that many others have given me. I didn't say the fixed pins shouldn't be there, I said the SLINGS shouldn't be there. Let me repeat myself once more, and see if you can catch it this time: Slings on fixed pins on roofs make the climbing easier, and less fun in my opinion. thats all I'm saying. Who cares if I haven't done the route, you can see them from the ground, and several of my buddies have told me its a boring clip up. Needless to say, I hope to go do it this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RURP Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 This is RURP: First, Big Wave kindly asks: "Has anyone done Town Crier @ Index? Will the aid pitches go clean (sans nailing)? What do you think the clean ratings are? What gear do I need?" THEN THE LAMBONE ANSWERS AUTHORITATIVELY: "yes, C2, standard clean aid gear for classic aid routes, offset stuff for pin scars" AND MORE... "I think that the anchors have been replaced, and many of the lead bolts above the tripple [translated: "triple"] roofs...but I'm not sure if there were any new ones added." AND YET MORE STILL... "I was just wondering if bolts were added to the original route. I'm not really interested in your opinion, but thanks anyway." WHAT A NICE GUY! BUT HERE'S THE "CLINCHER": "I HAVEN'T DONE TOWN CRIER, ONLY SEEN IT FROM BELOW...Maybe I'm wrong, I don't know. I'm no expert aid climber, mearly mediocer.." YOU SURE SEEM TO BE AN EXPERT ON A CLIMB YOU HAVEN'T DONE, MR. SELF-PROCLAIMED "MEARLY MEDIOCER"[translated: "merely mediocre"]AID CLIMBER! Best of luck to BigWave! RURP has spoken. [ 05-15-2002, 07:53 AM: Message edited by: RURP ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 Replacing manky bolts (assuming their placement was valid in the first place) is always a good idea. It boggles my mind that there is even a question of it. Those who wish to enjoy the thrills of manky bolt ladders can use my soon to be released "weak as shit" 'biners. Until I find the proper liability insurance, their doubles can be purchased through retailers such as Lowes or Home Depot. Look for the fancy colored biners in a bin near where keys are made. PP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 Ever seen a broken Leeper hanger? I have. I downclimbed rather than rap on the one remaining rusty trusty next to it. The manufacturer recalled Leeper hangers becuse they have been known to fail under *body weight*. They should be replaced. When new, 1/4 inch bolts are fine and easier to place. No argument there. 1/4 inch bolts that are 30 years old and manufactured out of pig iron are generally not. If someone is willing to spend the time and money to do you a service by replacing them, don't give them a hard time about it on the grounds that you are doing 'real' climbing. By the way, washed potholes and washouts shouldn't be fixed on account of people doing 'real' driving. blah blah blah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAMAZONIA Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 cowrecting sumones spell'in isent polight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Son_of_Caveman Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 No sheit azwhole BURP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 15, 2002 Share Posted May 15, 2002 okay off topic, this shiznit is closed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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