catbirdseat Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 What do you say to (yell at) your second when he/she says your brand new cam is stuck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Clean it or buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 19, 2004 Author Share Posted February 19, 2004 Lovely to look at, delightful to hold, but if you can't clean it, baby, it's sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 the more appropriate approach to this dilemma may involve some pre-climb retraction instruction if its a newbie, otherwise place the cam correctly, if you blow it on the lead, can't really say much 'cept give it youre best shot, then maybe lower down yourself, and work on YOUR CAM. if there is the chance of a newbie getting my shit stuck, i'll make sure they know the program, and i'll do my best to make it easy for them as they learn the intricacies of gear removal. but sometimes shit happens, and you gotta weigh the price of a peice of gear over safty, and frienships/partnerships. use tact-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 the more appropriate approach to this dilemma may involve some pre-climb retraction instruction if its a newbie, otherwise place the cam correctly, if you blow it on the lead, can't really say much 'cept give it youre best shot, then maybe lower down yourself, and work on YOUR CAM. if there is the chance of a newbie getting my shit stuck, i'll make sure they know the program, and i'll do my best to make it easy for them as they learn the intricacies of gear removal. but sometimes shit happens, and you gotta weigh the price of a peice of gear over safty, and frienships/partnerships. use tact-bp i placed a crappy cam last week. my partner almost couldn't clean it. totally my fault. i wouldn't have been upset if he hadn't been able to clean it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 'did you say you wanted slack?' thats what i say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Seriously, sending an extra nut tool down to them usually alleviates the problem. Just climb with crusty dirtbag booty kings and you'll know if they say it's stuck, then it's STUCK. This call is usually made after 30 minutes of working on it and much cursing and yelling. Or just yell "clean it or I'm going to piss on your head, after that the coils start droppin...now get to it Ajax" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 yeah, some folks will not let it go... sometimes things get stuck...sometimes cams that other people thought were stuck get unstuck, its kinda a game of give and take... i sometimes botch it and get shit stuck, and i also score plenty of booty so it kinda balances out for me i try not to sweat it. some people have like a score to keep, "i've never not been able to clean a peice" like they'll sit there get all pissed, bloody, waste a ton of time over a few dollar nut, whatever floats youre boat i suppose. but wasting time on some routes, is far worse in consequence than $ lost...my 2 cents-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 I usually split abandoned gear 50/50 with my partner. I was on R&D this summer with a couple of friends and was following a boyfriend/girlfriend team. The girlfriend (who was following) got sketched and kept leaving cams behind. After topping out, the waiting boyfriend walks up and politely asked for his crap back. I handed over 5(!) cams and quickdraws. I thought briefly of rapping down before I got to the top...but he was a nice guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 that was good of u FE. i think i would do the same, booty is only good if you don't know who's it is( i.e. may have been there a couple of days, or whatever) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 that was good of u FE. i think i would do the same, booty is only good if you don't know who's it is( i.e. may have been there a couple of days, or whatever) yup. if the original owner of the gear is in the vicinity of the gear it should be returned. my partner dropped a couple lockers the same day i placed the afore mentioned cam badly. the nice people at the bottom of the route promptly returned them when asked. i'm w/ bp. it all evens out in the end. sometimes you can clean the stuck piece. sometimes it's not worth half an hour. it all seems to come out even over the long run. no point sweatin too much if your partner can't clean it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 hey figure 8 did you get at least bj for a good deed? u deserved a knober Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Teaching my wife how to trad climb. She was cleaning a route up at Mt. Erie. I was explaining to her about how cams can walk. So she wiggles it, walks it up into the crack and then can't get it out. It was pretty funny seeing her face go white when she realized her mistake. Thankfully I was able to get it out in about two minutes with a nut tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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