Dru? Don Serl? (anyone else?)

[Don_Serl]

whew! dru! a mistake... for shame, buddy!

fact is, sir sandford is the highest peak in the selkirks, and will definitely be covered in the new northern selkirks guide (maybe out by christmas?)

i don't know a thing about the approach, but i'll e-mail dave jones to see if he'll post a reply.

cheers, don

[Lowell_Skoog]

I climbed Sir Sanford in August 1994. We approached by the wimp route--helicopter to the Great Cairn hut. We climbed the peak via the standard north glacier, hourglass route. Then we backpacked over to the Fairy Meadows hut via Azimuth Pass, Thor Pass, and Friendship Col. We climbed Big Blackfrier along the way and camped on the Adamant Glacier. With the loads we carried, it took us 11 or 12 hours traveling from Great Cairn to Fairy Meadows. I believe the guidebook calls it 7 hours.

After a couple days climbing around Fairy Meadows, we hiked out Swan Creek to the road, which took a bit over 3 hours, going downhill. I don't know about any other approach routes. So, I think you could approach Sir Sanford by traversing from Fairy Meadows and Swan Creek, but you should probably allow two days to get there, unless you go very light.

[todd]

sorry to single you guys out, but ive been trying to get info on mt sir. sandford and figured you guys would be the ones who might know about it. i tried a post titled "mt. sir sandford" and didnt get any responses. i have an old american alpine club "guide to the columbia mountains" and its description of the approach is kind of vague. do either of you (or anyone else) know if there is a newer guidebook available or have any experiences/tips that you could share? cheers.

[IceIceBaby]

Maybe this will help Mount Sir Sandford

[todd]

yup, already checked that out - doesnt say much. but thanks just the same.

[Dru]

The 1992 AAC guide to Columbia Mts of Canada is the most up to date guide for the area.

 

Its Northern Selkirks so expect it to be in Dave Jones' upcoming Selkirks North guide. Out this summer!

 

The previous post in thi space contained factual errors and has been heavily reedited so Dru doesnt look like such an idiot.

 

[ 04-15-2002, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

[imorris]

Hiking up Swan Creek to Fairy Meadows in the summer is supposed to be "character-building" (mosquitoes, switchbacks, mosquitoes, etc). The helicopter makes sense (and a short flight in summers to FM or Great Cairn). In winter Palmer Creek (approach to Sandford) is apparently a severe avalanche terrain trap.

I think it's great that there isn't a play-by-play guidebook to the area. The climbing is much more of an adventure that way, and you can read the old CAJ entries to get route info (there is a good collection on Sir Sandford in the Great Cairn Hut).

The traverse from FM to Great Cairn is fairly straightforward, but we ran into some difficulties descending Azimuth Ridge (mainly avalanche danger). Adamant Meadows is another option for a base camp which puts you in striking distance to the Adamant range and Sir Sandford. Unless you want a hut. Great Cairn is in a beautiful spot but it's a haul to most of the climbing in the area.

[Dave_Jones]

quote:

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Originally posted by todd:

sorry to single you guys out, but ive been trying to get info on mt sir. sandford and figured you guys would be the ones who might know about it. i tried a post titled "mt. sir sandford" and didnt get any responses. i have an old american alpine club "guide to the columbia mountains" and its description of the approach is kind of vague. do either of you (or anyone else) know if there is a newer guidebook available or have any experiences/tips that you could share? cheers.

---

[Dave_Jones]

Mount Sir Sandford, 3519m; NTS Map sheet 1:50,000 Mount Sir Sandford, 82N12.

Access:

There is a variety of means of access of varying degrees of efficiency and ease as follows:

1. Helicopter. By far and away the most efficient for trips extending beyond more than one or two days. I highly recommend Don McTighe, Alpine Helicopters from Golden. I could provide you with some of Don’s flying schedule around the N. Selkirks this summer but that should be worth a beer or two.2. It is possible to climb Mt. Sir Sandford in approximately 24 hours return to your vehicle. Drive up Columbia West Forest Service Road (92.8km east of Revelstoke; 44.2km west of Golden) to Black Road (turnoff at km 39.4). At km10.5 on Black Road, take the right hand fork and drive another 8-10km on the road up Gold River. This requires a high clearance 4x4 vehicle. Ascend some bush and then alpine slopes to a col west of Vidette Peak and gain Sir Sandford Glacier. Travel northeast on the glacier around the north ridge of Vidette and gain the Sir Sandford-Ravelin col and the beginning of the standard route. (Alternately you could drive to the end of the road ~ 15km - and then bushwhack to Moberly Pass, thence up Goat Glacier to Sir Sandford Pass & Glacier) – a solid day approach.3. Drive north on Columbia West Forest Service Road 63.8km (road sign 111 km from Golden) to the Swan Creek logging road. Follow this road, taking the first spur road right (might be best to park here unless high clearance 4x4). Follow the spur road to the trail head. The Swan Creek trail was re-cut in the fall of 1998 and spring of 2000. Allow about 5 hours with full packs to Fairy Meadow. Allow another 5-7 hours from Fairy Meadow to Great Cairn – Ben Ferris hut via Friendship col – Gothics Glacier – Thor Pass – Adamant Glacier – Azimuth Notch.4. Accessing the Sir Sandford area from the south is a wee bit harder than it used to be years ago. It is quite a haul up Tangier River to Tangier Pass thence following the height of land to Great Cairn hut. I usually allow 5 days for this traverse. 5. It is also possible to drive up Columbia West FSR, thence up Black Road. Rather than take the road up Gold River, follow the left fork, which takes you up Bachelor Creek. At km 27 take the right fork for 2.7km to a high landing at about 1770m. From the landing a new well cut, flagged trail leads easily in about 1 hour to the alpine, whence it is a modest hike to Bachelor Pass and the beginning of Pyrite Ridge – should be able to easily make Great Cairn hut in 2 days via this route. This is a very scenic route with minimal gain and loss of elevation.6. If none of the above suit your needs, drive up Columbia West FSR to Gold River. Cross the bridge and park just off the road on the west side. An old logging road soon turns into an abandoned trail that leads in the general direction of Palmer Creek. Follow your nose through the wonderful Selkirk bush and cliffs along Palmer Creek directly to Great Cairn hut. Allow 5-7 days for this short approach.

[imorris]

Indeed, dove-tailing with Don or Dave from Alpine when they shuttle the ACC's general camps can make the helicopter prices quite reasonable in summer. Large quantities of alcohol and fresh vegetables can also be brought in (worth the price alone).

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Don Serl:

whew! dru! a mistake... for shame, buddy!

fact is, sir sandford is the highest peak in the selkirks, and will definitely be covered in the new northern selkirks guide (maybe out by christmas?)

i don't know a thing about the approach, but i'll e-mail dave jones to see if he'll post a reply.

cheers, don

---

Ya see, I hang my head in shame I WAS WRONG ... sometimes I type and dont bother to connect my brain to my fingers.

[todd]

thanks to everyone for your replies - especially dave - if we ever happen to cross paths, youve earned a pint or two... but thanks to everyone again - lots of good information.