chucK Posted December 6, 2003 Posted December 6, 2003 michael_layton said: The west face of sloan in winter. someone posted a photo of seriously sweet ice one it in the Freshie Zone but I couldn't find it. Someone wanna find and post that here? michael_layton said: HERE I forgot how sweet this route(s) would be. shit, gimme a call if yous guys are goin'. mattp said: You you-know-what's. I was hesitant to post anything about Sloan at all last year, because it was the W. Face I was actually interested in and I feared attention may not be a good thing for my selfish ambitions. But I posted a trip report anyway, and PF went up there and he didn't know any better. Now the one and only cool climb left in the State is public knowledge (not really, but I hope you'll at least have the decency to invite me along when you go up there to try and snag it -- and I hope that isn't before about February when it may actually come into shape). JayB said: I think that there have been a few folks keeping that aspect in mind since those photos were posted last year Matt. Hopefully Layton's goading will persuade someone to get up there and hit it. Wasn't there some mention of a washout that would cut off Sloan's would be ascenscionists a few miles short of the trailhead? That alone might keep all but the most determined away from the mountain this winter if it's true.... Necronomicon said: mattp said: You you-know-what's. I was hesitant to post anything about Sloan at all last year, because it was the W. Face I was actually interested in and I feared attention may not be a good thing for my selfish ambitions. But I posted a trip report anyway, and PF went up there and he didn't know any better. Now the one and only cool climb left in the State is public knowledge (not really, but I hope you'll at least have the decency to invite me along when you go up there to try and snag it -- and I hope that isn't before about February when it may actually come into shape). Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. Off_White said: Necronomicon said: Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. That winning combination seems to have worked for any number of climbers, but that's a nifty designation for mattp, maybe his description should change to "selfish and lusty" mattp said: Necronomicon said: Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. mommy Paco said: As much as it sucks to have super-secret projects become much talked about objetives, I'm hoping to see some competition and some ambition among local climbers this winter. It would be really cool if the local climbing scene became active this winter and ticked some real gems. Hopefully the new ice climbing guide will provide some motivation for people to explore the cascades. There are surely some sweet objectives still to be plucked. My big objectives for this winter in the cascades include the West Face of Sloan and the North Face of Triumph. The race is on mutha phukers! dberdinka said: Paco said: I'm hoping to see some competition and some ambition among local climbers this winter..... There are surely some sweet objectives still to be plucked. My big objectives for this ..... The race is on mutha phukers! So in the interests of competition what are these unplucked gems? Sloan NW Face (they'll be linign up) Triump N Face (they'll be lining up-not) Pyramid E Face (can heli's land there?) Slesse Coulior-of-Death (or whatever it's called) New York Gully Headwall Direct (does it go?) More winter ascents in the Pickets (a local climber has evidently be trying the north side of McMillan for years, supposedly a fine line!?) Dru's North Face of Old Settler looks accessible, pretty damn sweet and BIG! Wasn't some dude claiming to attempt a winter solo of Thin Red Line, derivative but bold cough it up With the untimely death of Ben Manfredi will the extreme sking void be filled? Last couple years might one day be seen as a golden age of this genre. What big descents are left? Will someone ski Triple Couliors or the TC-N Face link up? Northeast Coulior of Goode is doable and needs to be done. What else? Anyone ever seen the Beowolf Coulior on Bonanza? michael_layton said: The rumors of ice section in WA ice has it pretty covered 'cept for B.C. Yak Peak Most of the Cheam and Chilliwack ranges on into WA. HWY 20 past greybeard Alex said: dberdinka said: New York Gully Headwall Direct (does it go?) If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex dberdinka said: Alex said: If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex I've never been on the route, in fact I've never seen the route. I mean the big rock headwall that sits above the climb and is skirted on the right. Jim Nelson makes some reference to it as a challenge for future climbers..blah, blah, blah. Am I the only fool around here willing to openly discuss unclimbed lines, projects, etc.? Come on folks cough em up! JoshK said: dberdinka said: With the untimely death of Ben Manfredi will the extreme sking void be filled? Of course it will. Ben had lots of buddy's that were coconspirators in his crazy adventures. I fully expect these guys to keep the torch moving. dberdinka said: Will someone ski Triple Couliors or the TC-N Face link up? For some reason I still don't buy that TC hasn't been skiied. It's so completely accessible and such an obvious line. Besides that it frankly isn't that hard of a ski. I guess it's just hard to believe with all the good skiiers around here that nobody has done it. fleblebleb said: I can't even pretend to understand how somebody could ski the runnels. Everything else, sure, I guess. Does rapping the runnels still make it a ski descent? michael_layton said: The ultimate in thread DEATH is when it drifts into a skiing discussion. Fuck Off you Pussies. Any asshole can fall down a moutain (i know ). Try skinning up the Tripple Couloirs next time. That would be something. Shit a fucking rock can make it down if you throw it. Skiing is basketball for rich white snobs who can't ice climb! Free the heel and free the Anterior Cruciate! Snowboarders know better. They treat it like a game, or a party. eric8 said: well said To get the thread back on track the north buttress of terror is needs to be done. Suppose the colonial could see another line on that face. skykilo said: Nice troll. I won't reply to this, but I would just like to say I think it is bullshit. Now I'll leave this thread alone for all you pussy climbers who don't have the good sense and style to carry an extra twenty pounds up the mountain, and turn the approach and descent into a party. And I'd be happy to dunk on any of you in a game of hoops at your local indoor gym. -A rich white snob, who used to live in PDX and liked it there Cpt.Caveman said: Yeah - Easy ski conditions. Cheers sky Lambone said: PARTY Cpt.Caveman said: Right on. I dont have anything against Layton but my guess his balls will shrivel trying to repeat the ski down Fury NF. Paco said: repeat of Eve Dearborne Memorial route anyone? Crackbolter said: I don't understand the point here. Why are you guys talking about winter repeats to be done? Is it so you can prove your knowledge of unclimbed routes in the Cascades or inspire folks to do first ascents? Traditionally, people do not talk about this kind of stuff to such a large audience. It is kept between friends. mattp said: Uhhh .... Crackbolter: This is a climbing website. We talk about climbing here. That includes both new routes and repeats -- some folks like to get psyched up for either one. What's your point? Are you suggesting that there should not be any discussion of lines that may not have been climbed yet? dberdinka said: Suck it Crackbolter I like talking about climbing and cool looking lines are something to talk about. Personally I'm not particularly motivated by FAs or FDs so I don't feel any need to not discuss undone lines. Having wandered around the Cascades for awhile I've seen a lot more lines than I have time (or skill!) to do. If someone reads a post then motivates to do something like ski the NE Coulior of Goode or maybe climb it's complete East Ridge or traverse W Ridge of Eldo-to-Torment-to-Forbidden-to-Sharfin-to-N Face-Buckner good for them! and good for Cascade climbing in general! It's just banter, and for the most part plainly visible to anyone who flips thru guidebooks. If you feel like your super secret projects are be revealed maybe it will motivate you to actually get out this year and do them. Crackbolter replied to mattp: I am not suggesting anything. I am only questioning your motives. For one, it makes no difference to me but it does bring greater competiton to a sport that in essence is about ones self accomplishment. Bringing it to this website only shows how compeditive you are towards climbing. If that is your motive, thats cool. Al_Pine said: It seems to me that keeping your prospective lines secret is as much, or more, competitive. If you're so noncompetitive then it shouldn't matter whether or not you got the FA, right? Crackbolter said: How can keeping a prospective line to yourself be more competitive? If it about your own aspirations, you keep it to yourself to keep away competition. Once everyone knows, it is no longer your goal but possibly many others as well...as in the case of Sloan. Al_Pine said: It just seems like to me that getting a FA is inherently competitive. "First ascent" means first to climb it, before anyone else. Means you beat everyone. What is not competitive about that? JoshK said: Who gives a shit who climbs what first. Even if I were to work real hard and get one or two first ascents around here, it is still going to be pretty much impossible to get them all. I'd rather have *somebody* do them so I can see the pics. If it pumps up your ego to climb something before somebody else does, good on ya', that's your perogative. Just bring back the pics and post them so the rest of us have something pretty to look at. mattp said: Its just another game to play, Josh. Some people want to climb the highest 100, others want to solo climbs that others use a rope on, and others want to tick all the routes in Jim Nelson's book or ski all twelve months of the year. It is all pretty much a game -- consider the completely arbitary rule that it is OK to clip a piece of gear for pro but you didn't really climb the pitch if you use it to hold body weight. There is nothing absolute or right about that principal - it is just how we all play the game. Whatever your game may be, that is OK by me. Crackbolter said: Means you beat everyone Is that what it means? Really!? I thought for some reason it had more to do with going into the unknown and against all odds, you prevailed and made your objective. If everything worked out okay, you might have tapped into your inner self to bring out the best in you. Huh, what do I know? You probably know better than I. Al_Pine said: Crackbolter said: I thought for some reason it had more to do with going into the unknown and against all odds, you prevailed and made your objective. If everything worked out okay, you might have tapped into your inner self to bring out the best in you. Surely none of this requires being the first ascender. None of this requires keeping quiet about your goal. michael_layton said: Crackbolter, you are trying to make yourself sound cool and altruistic by trolling us with your STUPID repsonses. We are sharing interesting information with each other, which gets us psyched up, which hopefully will propell someone to go do something cool. I'd like to see more FA's to enrich our climbing community. Goddamn were some of your responses dumb! Dru said: so who else has got a PM from crackbolter threatening unspecified angst for talking about unclimbed routes? I support the "sacrificial route" theory - when you are gonna go try the unclimbed Mega Face of Mount Badass the next weekend, you start a thread about the unclimbed Not So Harsh face of Mt Suck to lure the gapers away on that note who's going in to the east face of Mt Spickard this winter continue... Quote
Dru Posted December 7, 2003 Posted December 7, 2003 after examining it i have concluded that the 6000' north face of Hope Mountain offers a Mt Index type winter route. when will we get good conditions? approach is minimal, hopefully one only has to go a few hundred m up a creek canyon before hitting avvy snow. Quote
Ade Posted December 7, 2003 Posted December 7, 2003 Alex said: dberdinka said: New York Gully Headwall Direct (does it go?) If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex Do you have any info on this? I can't find any reference to another line on the Snoqualmie headwall having been climbed (Beckey, ClimbingWashington.com or the past ten plus years worth of AAJ). Which aid line are you refering to? Where does it go exactly? When you say freed at MHard do you mean it's been climbed in winter free? Quote
forrest_m Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 ade - i think he is referring to the "knifeblade crack" at the end of the original NY Gully route that you and I avoided on our final pitch. see this thread for more discussion. I understand "free" in this context to mean "without etriers", since we all know that ice tools and crampons are aid. the "direct headwall" route, which i would understand to be something like "from the dead tree at the end of the first (leftwards) traverse, go straight up", AFAIK, still belongs to the realm of speculation. Quote
Dru Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 i would say "free" not only means "without crampons and aiders" but more importantly "with no falls or hangdogging/resting during the ascent" including umbilcals.... Quote
forrest_m Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 Dru said: "without crampons and aiders" ??? maybe we should just say "M-style" and leave it at that? i assumed when someone says m-hard that crampons and ice tools were used. Quote
Dru Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 it must be cause i'm still fucked up from the weekend, i don't know how that "campons and" snuck into my post free = no falls,. no resting, no hanging, no umbilical cheating. crampons, ice axes = OK leashes = your call. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 Dru makes good points. I'll be happy to see someone climb WF Sloan in winter. EVEN IF IT IS A CANADIAN! That might show us statesmen that we suck at climbing and reading conditions. Either way have at it. Quote
Dru Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 i dont even know how to get to sloan, i have to study my green beckey again. you go east from mt vernon or everett, and then... Quote
Dru Posted August 20, 2004 Posted August 20, 2004 and... ? and....? beuller???? u r all so suck me too Quote
JoshK Posted August 21, 2004 Posted August 21, 2004 I think you make a turn onto the chocolate highway and go right up that. Quote
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