robertm Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I am starting a new post since everyone ignored me in my last one. How long dis it take you from car to the base of the east face climbing route? I have wanted to do this climb for years but always wondered how long the approach took. thanks Quote
northfork Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I takes exactly 6 hours, 25 minutes, 4 seconds from car to base. Faster if you don't stop for potty breaks. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I will get my head chew up for posting this one But I think that u should present the question along these lines A person that weight 165lb with a backpack that weight 30lb ascending 5242 vertical feet's on a course of 18 miles given that on a flat surface average person with 45lb backpack will do 4 m/h and every 1000 feet will take additional 1 hour how long will it take him to approach Chimney Rock [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ] Quote
pope Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 With a tent and stuff...let's see, I think it was seven flat miles and then a bushwack up some steep, brushy talus for maybe a couple thousand feet of gain...ah Hell, I can't remember. Plan on a half day or so with big packs. The rock work goes faster than we anticipated; I can't see it taking more than a couple of hours to climb since it's mostly 4th class and pretty clean (lots of slings and crap for quick belays). The lower part of the route is in the line of fire for rock fall from the summit pitches, so keep that in mind if you're the first guys down. Left of the standard summit pitch, a ledge leads over to a really cool chimney pitch, and just left of that is a superb, "vertical" face pitch, tremendously exposed and about 5.6 no pro. I highly recommend this climb. It is of similar difficulty to the Tooth, but the alpine ambience of this glaciated area make the climb a forgotten classic (I'm betting we'll see this in Nelson's Cascade Select Vol. 5). [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: pope ] Quote
robertm Posted March 22, 2002 Author Posted March 22, 2002 Thanks for the beta Pope! I will plan on heading back there this summer and will post a TR. Quote
pope Posted March 22, 2002 Posted March 22, 2002 As a day trip, you can bang out those first flat miles in the dark and be ready to tackle the slide alder/talus at first light. This should put you at the base of the route by 9 or 10 a.m., and that is plenty of time to get up and off in the remaining light. You definitely don't want to try to descend through that brushy section in the dark. However you choose to do it, have fun. And remember the words of Big Lou: Bivouac...that's French for "mistake". Quote
Bug Posted March 22, 2002 Posted March 22, 2002 "with a backpack that weight 30lb " Who carries the rack and rope? Quote
Doug Posted March 23, 2002 Posted March 23, 2002 I highly recommend this climb. It is of similar difficulty to the Tooth, but the alpine ambience of this glaciated area make the climb a forgotten classic (I'm betting we'll see this in Nelson's Cascade Select Vol. 5). Yup. He and Potterfield can just cut and paste Peter Potterfield's last experience on Chimney in to the guide. Quote
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