Ultra Fun Beacon Rock Routes

[willstrickland]

Ok Peter, my choices...

1.Free for All .8 or w/ left start .10a2.Blownout w/ Direct start .10a3.Dod's Jam .10c4.Wind Surfer .10b or .10c (don't remember)5.Steppenwolf (.10c to ledge or .11 for full route)6.Wrong Gull .10 something7.Tennessee Walker aka Ten a Cee Stem,.10c obviously8.Seagull .10b/c9. Excaliber .12b

Free for Some has like one face sequence down low that's bouldery and the rest is ho-hum. Pipeline is weirdly off balance lieback and jam. Beacon is a good place for the .10 trad leader, and can entertain a .8 trad leader for a weekend, but for routes in the .10 d - .11d range it's a little lacking. That said, those pure stemming jobs like numbers 7 and 8 above are thought provoking.

[rbw1966]

SE Corner is considered by many to be a classic.

Free for All is a great line. Either bring some big gear for the lower part or be prepared to solo a long ways.

[Peter_Puget]

Is Beacon closed right now? Do your listed routes dry out quickly?

[allison]

Beacon Rock? Wherezzat?

[willstrickland]

quote:

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Originally posted by rbw1966:

SE Corner is considered by many to be a classic.

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First route put up, easiest technical line to the top, madly popular. I thought it was a waste of time personally, wanders all over hell and back, but the grade is attractive to the masses and it stays covered up.

Also wanted to add that from the top of Dod's there are a few options for the final top-out pitch. I recommend Dastardly crack, a short pitch of vertical .9 thin hands.

[willstrickland]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

Is Beacon closed right now? Do your listed routes dry out quickly?

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Yeah, closed Feb 1 - July 15 annually. They dry pretty quick, as the climbs are south facing and the wind in the gorge is always blowin.

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by allison:

Beacon Rock? Wherezzat?

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along the columbia river.....about 20-45 min east of vancouver.....awesome place awesome!!!!

[Szyjakowski]

quote:

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Originally posted by allison:

Beacon Rock? Wherezzat?

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probably not reccomended for sport climbers.

[rbw1966]

I dont think there are very many purely sport climbs at Beacon. At least not enough to make it worth the trip.

I agree with Will about SE corner. On a weekend that route can be as bad or worse than the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face. Wear a helmet if you're down below.

Beacon's a great place.

There's also some pretty good bouldering in the area.

[Bronco]

How long are the route's there?? I remember hiking up there as a kid and thinking it would be cool to just fly down like a birdy.

[willstrickland]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bronco:

How long are the route's there?? I remember hiking up there as a kid and thinking it would be cool to just fly down like a birdy.

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Typically 1-4 pitches. The monloith itself is supposed to be 850ft, but the near-vertical south face is around 400ft with the upper 100ft being predominently broken and grassy ledges. Only real detracting aspects are the proximity of the train tracks and the raptor closures (and the east face being off -limits).

Viewed from the southeast:Viewed from the southwest:

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

[Dru]

So is there any thin aid there - in other words can ya do some beakin' on Beacon Rock? preferably while eating bacon?

[klar404]

I just wanna know who the people in the boat are.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by klar404:

I just wanna know who the people in the boat are.

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Looks like the Hardy Boys to me. I think that is their fat friend Chet in the background. dude is probably about to go fix his jalopy.

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

[imorris]

Looks like a Ray Atkeson shot. Or a scene from current-day Lake Oswego.

-Iain

[wayne]

Other great routes when the others are busy;

Fear of flyingCrusinHigh and MightyJensens RidgeRed Ice Steppenwolf!Mystery Route( Yes it is at Beacon)Dont tell anyoneFire and Ice (chopped)Anything on the Seasons WallPacific Rim

[Peter_Puget]

This is mostly an attempt to get Will to fill in the blanks.

I have only been there twice. Once climbed "Free for Some" and "Pipeline." Both not very good. Went back and climbed Blownout in a snow storm Great route! Any body have any suggestions as to what other routes might be fun?

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by Szyjakowski:

probably not reccomended for sport climbers.

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thats okay allison we will go down and show all those hardcaore what a bunch of malcontent partially understood bunch of yahoos can do!!!!!

[allison]

Yippeee! Who's my buddy! Erik is!!!!

[Szyjakowski]

quote:

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Originally posted by erik:

thats okay allison we will go down and show all those hardcaore what a bunch of malcontent partially understood bunch of yahoos can do!!!!!

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i thought i was yer budy eriK oye yeah..me done forever with skool

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by Szyjakowski:

i thought i was yer budy eriK

oye yeah..me done forever with skool

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yeah for you!!!! no more skool!!!!!!!!!! so what are you going to do with your jr high completion certificate!!??

[Szyjakowski]

quote:

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Originally posted by erik:

yeah for you!!!! no more skool!!!!!!!!!! so what are you going to do with your jr high completion certificate!!??

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careful there muchacho, this thread myight be moved to spray...arsehole...drink lots of beer what do you think and climb till my fingers bleeed man...and work on that job thing...after summervacation

[Uncle_Tricky]

quote:

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RBW wrote: Free for All is a great line. Either bring some big gear for the lower part or be prepared to solo a long ways.

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Or, just bring some runners and girth hitch the tunnels created where the wide crack pinches off...