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Posted

They are good and you can step on them! Hard to place in flaring cracks. Depending on what sizes you were looking for I’d consider buying the largest Friend (7”) or a Valley Giant #9 (9”) as well. You can then use a cam as a pusher piece. Plus a cam can be used in a greater variety of placements.

 

PP bigdrink.gif

Posted

placing: parallel sides make for better placements as do rugosities over which the ends fit. two hands make the task easier but it can be done easily enough with one.

removal: easy. almost too easy. inadvertent knocks with your feet as you thrash upwards guarantees you will hear the clanging as it slides down the rope.

falls taken on them: no thank you. i try not to fall in squeeze chimneys (fukin pinball body trash action is not for me). but i have aided confidently on them.

 

Posted

I think those Valley Giants are out of stock right now...at least his website is listing them as out of stock...Lemme know if you can get ahold of one...

Posted

Hey...I have that huge wc friend...I've considered having shims milled to bolt through the lightening holes to expand its range...Just got to find a CNC machine...Whatcha think of that? Don't need the extra size, leave them on the ground... wazzup.gif

Posted

I have the #2 Big Bro, but I wouldn't recommend it. It protects 4" to 6" approx., but in my opinion larger cams are better for this range. The #3 Big Bro is a lot lighter and more compact than some huge cam. If you have to protect a 6" plus offwidth or a chimney without internal cracks, it would definately be the fast and light way to go.

 

They are definately trickier to place. It is really critical that the end that takes the load (the end you tie your 5mm Titan Cord to) is set well so that a lot of the cylinder edge is touching rock. It takes practice to efficiently set it well with 1 hand.

Posted

with the shims in place dontca think it would be hard to scoot up with you???? cuz seems that is a common o/w technique to walk your pieces.

 

 

Posted

It would work if you could attach the “shims” to the cams securely. Any looseness and the unit would suck. A simple hex bolt attachment wouldn’t inspire me very much. Do you think the attachment point would be a weakness in any event?

Posted (edited)

I think it would be more than secure enough...two pieces that were sandwiched thru the holes would put them into shear...talking to Mr. Radon right now...(and Fern also)...this would be a good alternative to modify a readily available cam...

 

Now, who gets to "test" it???? HAHAHAHA

Edited by RuMR
Posted

One of the Aid junkies that hung out at the gunks once in awhile uses small pieces of 2x4 on slings as cam shims. Body weight only obviously, but much lighter and way cheaper than aluminum.

 

Also I experimented with making my own cams when I was working in a CNC shop, and things start to change dramatically once you get above the WC#6/BD#5 size. I found I could not make things any more inexpensively than the valley giants unless I was to go into bulk production and I had neither the desire to compete or the time and capital to do so. As far as making bolt ons for the cam wings, it is a good idea, but you really need to watch out for the off-axis torque you will see, the axle is likely too small to hold up. I guess if you did it in a "Y":

 

v---new

======

 ======| <---old

======

^---new

 

that it would give you the neccesary stability. I would think it would much easier to drill some holes into the existing wings for mounting, this would be a lot better than trying to fit the lightening holes. You'd be filling an aluminum hole with steel so you're not losing any integrity that way... I made a few sets of cam lobes, and have some scripts, CAD and Gcode for them if it would be of any help to you...

 

 

Oh - and big bros suck out east, I sold my big two years ago. Maybe I'll give them a try out here. You really need a laser cut parralel sided crack to make them work right. They look really cool though!

Posted

Make'em Rumr I have the climb to test them on. How large could you go before the cams would get in the way while you are retracting?

 

Here is the VG website: Valley Giant

 

In my dealings with him he has been quick to respond even when I was just asking him his thoughts on other climbing related issues. Plus I think the VG is a pretty groovy ubnit.

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