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RuMR

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YOU SHOULD CLIMB MORE TRAD

the best alround endro test is sendin hard trad routes,

1) u have extra wieght via the rack

2) placing gear while pumped is a bitch and u gain alot of holdin power, or take a shit load of whippers till u do.

3)lots of good trad routes require hikeing as the aproach and this is of cource done with a pack full of shit.

(therefore increases more alround endurance)and basicaly

trad rockband.gif

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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

Man, lotsa those gully lurkers are like that. Sure, if you're gonna be way on top of the game, you better be bouldering V10 and be able to hang on for hours. But for most of us mortals, the enduro and a modest base of bouldering power is fine.

 

Plus, you're gonna get stronger hauling your ass around with all that extra weight on anyway. When DFA was doing a lot of lead-wall slogging with a weight belt, he would try to throw in some dynamic moves while doing laps. Mixing those in between easy moves on good holds is a nice way to train the mental, too. Helps you realize "hey, OK, even though I'm totally flamed, I can still punch some hard moves or hang some bad grips", which is a great thing to remember when you're flailing your way to the anchors.

 

The thing is, though, if you put in your work on that shit in the gym, you don't have to spend years projecting Smith routes. It's the clowns who do nothing but boulder and get frustrated when they can only go bolt to bolt at the crag who think it's too boring or too much work to send a route.

 

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Excellent Post!!! Thanx to the good doc!

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