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Logans Endless NW Ridge


wayne

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So ends my fascination this year with remote Mt Logan. This time I found our own little version of the Hummingbird Ridge: The Endless NW Ridge. The topo map doesnt lie on this one, It is over a mile long. It has almost 3000 feet verticle and is very serious and committing. Just getting there took more than was bargained. After leaving the trail at Junction Camp, there is great toil bushwacking through to the second lake, then one may be lucky to find the "Wrinkle In Time" to reach the fantastic Logan Creek Valley. Good Bivy amongst bear scat. The climb itself is endless exposed and commiting . Involving much 4th class and 5 rapplels to clear its abundant gendarmes. It gets harder as it goes too. Grade V-5.8

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The Wrinkle is an instinct I followed on a deer path from the second lake. It is a bizzare triangle that some how separated itself from the west side of the Logan Creek valley. It forms 2 valleys one of which actually flows up the LC valley. It formed the only way I could see to get to the inpenetrable LC valley. You may find it on a close up topo but neither the lakes nor the Wrinkle show up on the Green Trails. Pictures will follow, but you can see the ridge from a distance in Nelsons#1 pg 125 . It is the ridge on the left(Endless Ridge that is)

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wayne1112 said:

The Wrinkle is an instinct I followed on a deer path from the second lake. It is a bizzare triangle that some how separated itself from the west side of the Logan Creek valley. It forms 2 valleys one of which actually flows up the LC valley. It formed the only way I could see to get to the inpenetrable LC valley. ...

 

Very interesting. I just returned from "A Stitch Saves Nine," an alternate way to the bathroom that avoids the 2nd floor lobby.

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Seriously though, sounds awesome!

 

 

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I always think those weird geographical anomalies are cool – like the imperfect impasse (where it appears as how god took an 80’ square-bit router to the backside of Whatcom peak), or that little valley just before you drop over into cub lake on the dome peak approach that just seems to be running perpendicular to the direction you think it should…

 

Nice work, wayne, you’re Mr. long ridge traverse this summer…

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The pictures may be dissapointing as I was free-solo and alone . There is another picture of the upper one-half of the route in the green Becky(second edition) page:312 it is the ridge down and right.

Kearny did a rt up the face shown to get to the last gende, then bailed into a traverse left, to summit.There are a couple of good reasons this rt wasnt done before. : Its almost unreachable and the climbing is in big fear territory. Not that its all that loose.the ambience of the place is so intimidating and the rt finding is desparate if you blow it. Very scary if you dont.

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