Farrgo Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 A friend and myself headed up to squamish this weekend to do a link-up that would climb bottom to top of the chief. Considering that neither of us had done that much multi-pitch we decided to start out easy and do Banana Peel. That climb was way easier than either of us expected so we ended up simul-climbing much of it. It's not a bad way to go at all considering that it's a mild slab and there really isn't anywhere to place protection other than slinging trees. After that we walked along Broadway then headed up Pig Dogs on Parade. It's just a straight shot up a feature-less slab, watch out for the healthy runout after the 3rd bolt on the first pitch. To finish off we went over to climb the Ultimate Everything. What a sweet climb, the moves are really varied and though it goes at 5.9+a0, most of the climbing is far easier than that. Also, every cruxy section has bolts on it so there is no need to worry about the whipper. The final pitch is fairly tricky, we had hopes of freeing it until we got up there. In the end after all sorts of ugliness we finally chopped are way to the top. Great climb, great day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 sounds fun. another good one is St.Vitus direct to desert dyke(yellow alien) to memorial crack to squamish buttress -13 guidebook pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 try bottom line to banana peel or deidre to boomstick to ultimate everything. 20 pitches. Â or snake to desert dyke or form (10a or b), to memorial crack to UE. harder but better climbing. Â also, last pitch of UE, go left--10b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 yeah, squamish buttress kinda sux cep for the last pitch. Rock On to UE is good. I did that link-up, Diedre, and Banana peel, plus Khlanie and Cardhu crack, and finally the 1st pitch of local boys do good one day last summer for a squamish pitch legnth, el-cap day. (insert chest beating) Â I scoped the dream on -anxiety state link up, but the direct unfinished symphony seemed much better. what else...the great game-godforsaken (and visa versa)looks dumb. I'd much rather rap the last pitch of godforsaken after doing great game and lead out again. Â BTW, I'm going off page 39 in the guidebook. Â Smoke bluffs connection is a fun 3 pitches-wonderland or white rabbit finish (4 guidebook pitches) Anyone done the Avalon Connection or link ups at CragX(up from despair-friction addiction-bucky ki yeah, or center street-easy does it) Â Sunshine Chimney-slot machine or cream of white mice is fun. others??? Â Anyone ever climbed the entire Grand Wall-roman chimney, Norther Lights, Freeway trifecta? That would be amazing. I made this up but it sounds cool. Â a good harder moderate trifecta would be a combo of 3: Rock On/Squamish Butt (counts as one); Angel's Crest;Grand Wall(with Apronstring,cruel shoes,or the flake start);Millenium Falcon;Ultimate Everything(with rock on or similairly challenging approach climb). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murraysovereign Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 The True "Squamish Trifecta":  1 - Karaoke at the Chieftan Hotel 2 - Peelers at the O.P. 3 - Meat Draw at the Grizzly Bar  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 Just did most of Dream Symphony this weekend (Rapped off without doing the 11b finish because the sun was beating down on me making the "thin padding" rather difficult and slick. Dream State / Dream Symphony climbs are not for the faint of heart. We're talking some nasty runouts here. Great climbing but you better love slab! It was an awesome climb and I'll be back to climb it in cooler weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 michael_layton said:Â Anyone ever climbed the entire Grand Wall-roman chimney, Norther Lights, Freeway trifecta? That would be amazing. I made this up but it sounds cool. Â Â Â I believe Sig Isaac climbed Freeway, Grand Wall, and U. Wall, leading all pitches, in 1 day. This is a little thread drift, as it is not exactly a "moderate" linkup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 best moderate link up at squamish  angels crest plus squamish butt plus smoke bluff connection plus as much beer as you can hold down.  i'm still trying to link the 4th part to the first three successfully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 My fave so far is Banana Peel-Pig Dogs-UE. Squishy Butt has too much BS for one good pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 actually my favorite pitch on the butt is not the crux pitch (altho it is good fun) but the one with the weird flake stricking out of the crack that you mantle on.... used to be 5.7 and suddenly got upgraded to 5.9 and hopefully will be 5.7 again in the new guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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