Finger injury--looking for referral

[J_Fisher]

I hurt my left ring finger bouldering back in April--pulled on a shallow pocket undercling, heard loud pop, felt extreme pain. My self diagnosis was a partially ruptured A2 pulley. I've completely laid off all rock climbing except very easy all footwork type stuff hoping it will heal. Well, I notice from the calendar that nearly 6 months have passed and the thing still hurts and I can't climb anything other than 5.easy. I probably should have gone to a doctor a long time ago, but I'm now looking for a referral for a hand specialist that has specific experience with climbing injuries of this type. Thanks in advance

Edited September 17, 2003 by J_Fisher

[Coopah]

I injured both ring fingers in each hand from training. Pulled the muscle & tendon that attaches up near the elbow. I had pain for nearly 9 months on one finger and close to 6 for the other. I never went to the MD as i knew what I needed to do. As long as you still have normal (aside from pain) range of motion, there is not a lot you can do other than very easy climbing and light stretching. PT might help your recovery but I chose to just take it easy and not climb for awhile or if I did it was low 5th with juggy holds...

Edited September 17, 2003 by Coopah

[lummox]

no shit coopah. the doctors wont do shit cept give ya some motrin. unless you have lost range of motion. that might indicate tendon detachment. then they might try surgery.

 

the a2 pulley injury treatment from camp4.com goes like this:

Second Annular Pulley Rupture. Rupture of the A2 pulley is a relatively common injury and in one study has been reported in up to 40% of professional climbers. Rupture occurs as a result of the excessive stress on the A2 pulley during a cling grip. The long and ring fingers are most commonly involved. Pulley rupture can occur acutely or develop insidiously(1).

 

A patient who has acute pulley rupture complains of acute pain in the volar proximal phalanx region. The area is tender to palpation, and visible and palpable bowstringing of the flexor tendons is usually noted during active resisted finger flexion. The diagnosis may be difficult, and a limited magnetic resonance imaging scan or computed tomography scan may be necessary to help determine the integrity of the pulley and flexor tendons(1).

 

Minor A2 pulley injuries or partial tears with no evidence of bowstringing can be treated with either firm circumferential taping overlying the pulley or with a ring splint, worn full-time for 2 to 3 months to permit healing. Patients should also take time off from climbing(1).

 

The management of complete tears with tendon bowstringing is controversial. Surgical options include pulley repair or reconstruction. If there is any uncertainty regarding the diagnosis of A2 pulley rupture or the management of this type of injury, referral is recommended(1).

 

 

[J_Fisher]

Thanks for the feed back. I read the same articles and that's why I haven't gone to a doctor yet. But at this point, it's been so long I figure it can't hurt, and a good specialist who's seen these before may have some insights other than what's in the books. I may as well get something out of those insurance premiums I've been paying all those years...

[Szyjakowski]

"I've completely laid off all rock climbing except very easy all footwork type stuff hoping it will heal. "

 

quit climbing you idiot! yer just causing more damage. no pulling at all...let it heal!!! unless you wanna sell me yer gear and retire........

i myself pulled a finger last year...thought oh i will just climb cracks and no crimpers....two weeks later just doing a pullup was painfull.. suffered for almost three months without any climbing.

[Jens]

my two cents

 

* climbing finger injuries are so unique,doctors don't have much knowledge.

*Spend some time in a pair of aiders, slog some peaks,do some skiing, or see if it hurts grabbing ice tools.

*After suffering at least a dozen pretty major finger injuries in my life, I have come to the conclusion that once you are well, stay away from tape. Working at the gym, I've noticed that people who tape for prevention often come up hurt later.

* Costco Glucosimine/chondroditn has seem to help me a little bit.

* Peer pressure is what leads to injuries. If your buddies are saying send it dude, addrenline kicks in and you end up tweaked. The brain tells the carcas to perform harder than it can. It'ssuch a catch- 22. You need it though to grab the top out or clip the chains.