Matteo Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 Wondering if anyone has been up either route lately. How are the conditions. Any smoke in the area? Quote
layton Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 I'm sure they'll be fine on saturday! If the access coulior is melted out, just climb the EZ rib to the left. SAy hi to the maggots at the pit toilet for me (insert much needed vomiting greamlin) Quote
Matteo Posted September 12, 2003 Author Posted September 12, 2003 Sweet thinkin were doin the east ridge Quote
Matteo Posted September 12, 2003 Author Posted September 12, 2003 Benefits to do the East vs. the West Ridge?? Rock quality? Quote
scot'teryx Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 attempted the east ridge last monday sept 1st. Tried to do it in a day and I think it was too much for us as we moved slower on the pitches since mystic nacho only brought QD's (no i dont blame you dan) We bailed off the start pf the 5th pitch - lots o booty up there! the route was cool some seriously freakish exposure for sure the west ridge couloir is gone, only going about 1/2 way up the ridge, have image if you want to see it. avy debris is easily navigatable, just go straight across, and not veering upwards where some people have trampled a goat path that sucks ass Quote
Rad Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 Have not been up there in 2 years, sadly, but would highly recommend the E ridge route. Outrageous and continuous exposure is the big draw, coupled with moderate but interesting climbing, and no ugly crevasses to negotiate, add a few views and it's a great route. The E ledges descent was really no problem despite its reputation, though you may want to countour gently back to the ridge crest rather than swim up the gravelly gully at the end. You'll see when you get there. Another possibility is to go up E ridge and down W ridge, which I've heard is great but have not done. We dubbed the shoulder below the E ridge start as potshard ridge because rocks of that size and shape skitter underfoot with every step. Nothing dangerous though. No unusual gear requirements. A single rope will suffice for the E ledges descent and raps off towers en route - though it may not get you down if you bail off mid-route. Others can comment on that. Enjoy... Quote
layton Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 Do the East ridge and then descend the west ridge. That way you get both. The north ridge is fun too. i've done it late season, wasn't bad a'tall. the ice apron should be nice n' hard. Anyone done the South face? Tried to get necro in to do it, but he must'a eaten too many Luna Bars cuz his pussy hurt and didn't wanna go. Quote
JoshK Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 I haven't done the west ridge, but the east ridge was really a lot of fun; a great route I thought. Based on descriptions of the west ridge from people I know, it sounds like less climbing challenge for your buck. The "east ledges" descent I really didn't think was that bad. The raps are all established and easy and after that it's easy scrambling. Just be careful if you are getting down and it's getting dark. The terrain is easy, but a fall could definitely be fatal or very f**king painful. Quote
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