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dkemp

bizarre anchor on Barneys Rubble

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So, I was in Icicle Canyon doing mock leads this past weekend. We went up top of Barneys Rubble to set up a TR and I saw an anchor, if you wanna call it that. The rope was gone, and the people were gone, but their anchor was there.

 

There was a rock with a cam under it, and nearby another with another cam, with cord and carabiners coming down - obviously someone was TR'ing there. Both rocks were loose but the one was literally just sitting loose on top of Barneys Rubble. I guess it was a good size rock but I dont doubt I couldve moved it if I tried.

 

A couple dudes showed up while we were TR'ing and one asked if that was my rig. I bumped into them next day - they went back that night after dark and claimed the gear as booty.

 

Mighty odd. I wish I had taken a photo but I didnt think of it at the time. I went back next day to take a photo - my cams and pack are in the photo for scale.

 

3a.jpg

 

The tree was dead but it seemed better to me than the rock behind it - totally loose. I think I wouldve tied off the tree.

2.jpg

 

Odd, dontcha think?

Dox

 

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Teaching? No, I was up there learning - "leading" on TR. Obviously I'm new to leading trad. I did a mock lead up Dogleg Crack as well - TR'ed off the tree on top. Boy was I glad I wasnt really leading that one! I didnt come off but I got real tired fiddling with the placements.

 

I might be a newbie but I never would have set up the rig seen above!

 

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wow, erik, just reread your post. Well, okay, maybe the rock behind the tree, I dunno - but that loose rock?? I'm a beginner with placing gear - correct me if you think I'm crazy.

 

 

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kemp

 

sometimes in the alpine using boulders for anchors is like s.o.p.

 

if there is alot of play in the rock to the extent that it would compromise the placement it would be an issue. in that case two boulders would be better. at it looks like thats what the people had setup.

 

but to trust your life to a dead tree is silly. the tree only repersents one sketchy placement. and burned trees fall down.

 

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I'd consider using the bolders slung with webbing over the cam placements. Better yet, sling the huge bolder further back in the 2nd photo.

 

dkemp, what did you use for your anchor?

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thinker,

 

not to nit pick(but seems like i always do!?)

 

but who has that much webbing? i dont think even my slack line is that long! blush.gif

 

bigdrink.gifyellaf.gif

 

abd yeah kemp, whatca use for an anchor? i have always wondered about that area. i know there used to be bolts, but they have been removed.

 

 

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I was doing a different climb, a 5.6 crack off to the left of this scene, that has bolt anchors.

 

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in a case like that best solution for an anchor is ta whip out your hilti and sink a couple of 1/2" bolts and add chains and/or rap hangers. thumbs_up.gif

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OKAY, WILL DO!! Hmm, I got no drill - guess I'm goin' to Home Depot tonight! I'll go back to Barney's and plug that thing up good. Yeehaw! wink.gif

 

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erik said:

thinker,

 

not to nit pick(but seems like i always do!?)

 

but who has that much webbing? i dont think even my slack line is that long! blush.gif

 

bigdrink.gifyellaf.gif

 

I have a couple of 50 footers I usually toss in the pack if I'm planning on toproping. They're leftovers from my days in the midwest (Pallisades Park, SD and Blue Mound, MN) where they were often essential pieces of TR gear.

 

A 2nd rope or a static rap line works just as well, and are probably more common in a PacNWer's pack.

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The rock in the first picture does move. I've moved it. If you pull on it one way it feels solid, another and it rocks. I would not use it, certainly not with a cam underneath hellno3d.gif I have used a couple of double runners and slung both the dead tree (pretty bomber for TR) and the rock jammed right behind it. That is about as good as it gets unless you have an extra rope. You do have a lot of friction though because that tree/rock are is about 15 from the edge. That place really does need a couple hangers. There is a hangerless bolt near the edge.

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