NE Ridge of Triumph

[Sol]

Thinking about heading out there in a couple of days. Nelson said its good through september, but beckey warns about a moat and wet ledges in the late season. anybody been up there lately. just wondering how hard it will be for us to access the ridge. Also, are the bivy sites large enough to accomadate a megamid. thanks for any useful beta.

[slothrop]

Bivy sites at the col before the glacier crossing (not the ridge) are not big enough for a Megamid. The route was easily accessible in the middle of last August, for what it's worth.

[Alpinfox]

Previous Thread

[JasonG]

I climbed it this past week and had no problem getting to the ridge. We crossed slabs below the glacier and scrambled up to the notch. The col bivy sites are spacious so I think a megamid would be fine (the spots to pitch it might be a bit bumpy, but PLENTY of room). There is a snow patch at the col that gives a small melt stream on warm afternoons . . . and dries up overnight. Have fun!

[Tod]

My buddy and I did the route last year in late September. No problems with the moat then nor would I expect any now. From the glacier to the ridge crest it's semi rotten 3rd/4th class scrambling. There is a great bivy site where you first hit the crest of the ridge, ~80 feet above the glacier. We were able to reach the bivy site on the ridge with overnight packs and without the need for a rope. There are 2-4 seperate spots for bivy sacks, but nothing big enough for a megamid. If the weather's good it's a great spot with a great view of the Southern Picketts at sunset.

 

The descent isn't that great since it's a lot of downclimbing, however there seems to be a good descent down the SE Ridge that involves long (overhanging?) rappels. I think the person who described it to me said it was a better descent, but involved double ropes for the rappel.

 

Watch out for rangers....

 

Tod

[Sol]

thanks for the beta y'all. went and climbed it. see TR for more info.