maryk Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 As if it's not hot enough here, I'll be spending some blocks of time back in North Carolina, Kentucky and Virginia this fall (mostly in October)......do any of you well-traveled folks have advice/info for rock in these areas, and do you know any folks I might be able to partner up with??? (I'm from NC and know the area well, but moved away 2 years ago and have never climbed there. Don't know KY and VA as well, but can read a map! thanks folks! ~~ mk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Three words: NEW RIVER GORGE... GO THERE...you won't be disappointed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 New River Gorge (West Virginia) + Summersville Lake is a great place. Stay at Roger's (Rocky Top Campground near the cliffs with Flight of the Gumby and Lactic Acid Bath - I can't remember the name) There isn't a whole lot of stuff at the NRG that's under 5.10. It's pretty much all sport as the only trad lines that get climbed are the ones that can be top-roped. The others get dirty pretty quick. Check out some of the climbs in the Bridge Area. Red River Gorge (Kentucky) is a great place also. Known for it's overhanging jug routes. There's a climbers campground there too. I don't know the name, but I think it's in the backyard of a pizza shop or something like that. Seneca (West Virginia) is the place for trad routes in West Virginia. Lot's of moderates and nice exposure. I don't know too much about rock further south other than there is a lot and it's good too. You're own your own for partners. Have fun and I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 The New in WV rocks there are thousands of routes there and ton of bouldering. Check out Summerville Lake over there is it an amazing place, good swimming, short approach, beautiful waterfall, and great routes. Also the Red River Gorge in KY awesome sandstone pocket pulling, there is a variety climbing their as well. Both areas are mainly sport. Looking Glass in North Carolina if you want granite. It is mainly trad area, never been there. Can't help you with partners. I think there is a website similar to this for Southeast climbers, from what I remember though it is not used by as many. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Paco...you are out of your mind...some of the best trad routes i know of are there...beauty is loaded w/ them, as is central endless, and cripes, the junkyard is ALL trad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 miguels is the place at the red to kick it and find paad'ners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 roger's serves same purpose for the new... can't go wrong at new or red, but the new is waaaaay more varied in my opinion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 VA sucks for rock climbing. There are a few small areas around Roanoke, Blacksburg, and up near Charlotesville, but not worth road-tripping to. Hit up the New, but it is kind of a long drive if you are going from the Red River Gorge or from S.W. Virginia. I'd focus more around Tennessee. You have the Obed River Gorge, T-Wall, Suck Creek Canyon, Foster Falls, Sunset, and countless others around Chattanooga and N. Georgia. If in N.C. Looking Glass is o.k. if you like multi-pitch friction slab, but I would go to Linville GOrge anyday over Looking Glass or Stone Mountain, another granite slab in NC along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Pick up the Dixie Cragger's ATlas and take a look. I'd rec. checking out Whitesides, but that area has some serious run outs. I saw one that was approx. 400' route with 8 pieces of gear! Strong ground-up ethic there, but really beautiful. Good luck! Also check out the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. They usually have good info on areas to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maryk Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Ryland -- hey I thought I might hear from you in this post. Yeah, I was thinking Linville Gorge and Stone Mtn. And, I've climbed in the Uwharries once before, years ago, but I don't remember where I was (some things never change!). Yes, since I plan on driving to KY from NC, I could hit up some nice spots in TN too - I hadn't thought of that. The atlas is good advice and I'll try to find the website. I have a few climberish friends back home too, but all this info is very good....keep it coming folks if you have any other helpful info. Thx -- maryk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingGirl33 Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Hey - Try Rockclimbing.com for partners!!! It always works for me when I road trip! I've heard great things about the new and red and have friends who have climbed both places if you want some specifics: PM me and I will introduce you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 CLIMBING GIRL THIS IS A REAL CLIMBING WEBSITE, PLEASE DONT MENTION RC.COM HERE AGAIN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingGirl33 Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 yeah . . . but this is also the same web site that didn't believe I was real. I had to take my figment of a self elsewhere ;-) Seriously - to find partners outside of the PNW - other sites have their uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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