wscottf Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 I've never done Davis-Holland before and I was wondering how it compares to Thin Fingers, Breakfast of Champions, Godzilla. Any beta? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 its one of the best..make sure to do lovin arms! take extra in the purple camalot-red camalot and two repoes to return to the ground. all da beta ya need! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 wscottf said: I've never done Davis-Holland before and I was wondering how it compares to Thin Fingers, Breakfast of Champions, Godzilla. Any beta? Thanks! p1 == lieback like p1 of Toxic Shock. #3 camalot down low then several committing moves. p2 long (130ft +) and kinda enduro. Not too many rests, it eats gear around #1 camalot size but widens up alot right before anchors, so #3 or #4 helpful there. Its not really like BOC or Heart of Country because its not as steep, but a little more technical and longer. p3 is more face-y than crack. more technical, less sustained than p2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coondog Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Just climbed it for the first time Friday... Second Erik's post that extras in the purple & red cam's are handy. Enjoy the start of the third pitch too... easier than it looks. didn't do Lovin' Arms but can't wait to go back for it... woof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 and if you keep going p.4 crack to chiminey p.5 traverse with Ao move p.6 stiff 5.9 face with scary mantle finish last 2 can be combined i hear from boobyp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 p1 hard for 5.9 p2 'bout right. Would be nice to have about 3 .75 Camalots p3 easy for 10c. Small wires for crux. p4 hard for 10b go right then left then right then up p5 easy for 10c if you go up the chimney then to the easy hand traverse (the easy one, up a bit higher, not the sucker one right after the squeeze that diagonals down). HB offset about size 5 or 6 or so (about the size of a #6 or #7 WC Rock, but offset like an HB offset) key piece for me. The yard on the sling way is not easy for 10c. p6 hard for 5.9 unless you do one of the easy weasel way outs You can use a #4 Camalot on p's 3 and 4. Info to help you decide which leads to take: Good belays atop p's 1,3,5. Cramped belays above p's 2 and 4. Also pitches 2,4,6 seemed scarier relatively (as long as you have that key HB offset). Best pitches 2,4,5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 see yall there this afternoon... yeeeeuuuhhh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 bobbyperu said: see yall there this afternoon... yeeeeuuuhhh! HOOKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 hooker..? yea i'm pretty slutty... i'll get it on wit anyone... lookin for a pimp... to get me some tricks for wa pass this weekend... johns? where you at? lovin arms was cool last afternoon tho right as i finished the 4th pitch the shit came down and by the time ken4 reached the belay we were drenched!.. jungle love sweet livin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Yeah it was gettin' a little humid up there last night at the end of the fourth. Partly cause of all the de alkehol that I was sweating out of my system and the weather system we had above us. Good time though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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