steinbok

[todd]

dru,

it sounds like youve been back there. i picked up a copy of "alpine select" last spring, and went up there with a friend during the summer. the picture in the book made steinbok look absolutely incredible, and it only listed a couple of routes. so we were surprised (and indeed suspicious of the things you said) when some people had never heard of it, or when those that had at least heard of it knew nothing about it. a canadian friend who was living in squamish at the time and has climbed pretty extensively said that although he had never been there, he heard that the cracks were dirty, a lot of it was lower angle than it looks in the book, and the rock wasnt very clean. however, he said its probably worth taking a look (of course that is his view on everything). but as that was the only information we had, and our vacation was coming to an end, we decided to go elsewhere. in your honest opinion, is it not worth the trip back there? does the photo in the book make it look like something it is not?

[dberdinka]

Ok, so I'm not Dru but I have climbed in the area on a couple occasions. The climbing is a blast though don't expect to find Squamish quality rock. Steinbok is an absolutely amazing looking piece of rock with the buttress being the defining line in the area. The is a write up on bivouac.com about the first free ascent. Sounded like the rock was great, the cracks were dirty and the pro was sketchy.

Definitely worth a visit if you live in the PNW. If your down in CO it's probably a little obscure and out of the way to be worth a vacation in and of itself.

Also, The photo in the book definitely does it justice.

[ 02-05-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

[Cpt.Caveman]

The only stein i know is the ones we drank out of at the Munchen Oktoberfest

[Yos]

Steinbok is where they filmed the rock climbing scenes in the movie K2. Never been, but I thought I'd share some mountain trivia.

What information is available on this area (Books/Magazines)?

[Dru]

The whole Anderson River area has exceptionally coarse rock resulting in a layer of death crystals. but there is some good stuff. that edwards/spagnut will go unrepeated for a while, I do beileve. it aint too hard (5.11a) but very sustained and requires all kb pro while free climbing and wailing in pins from sketchy stances. or maybe some new ZeroCams from Wild Country

The big roof is called Mosquito Roof for a reason.

Expect 40C in the summer as it gets super hot there sometimes.

THE route to do is Springbok Arete on Les Cornes. Take a bolt kit or enormous balls and Sharma like down climbing skills to replace death rap anchors (tied off blades of grass, by repute) on the rappell descent.

[Dru]

oh yeah the photo of purple people eaters you see on the cc.com front page sometimes is on alpaca peak which is two cirques over from steinbok. the rock is better but the cracks are mostly absent.