Beta for a few Rainer routes

[swissman]

I've got myself a couple of days to go have fun in the hills.

Main goal is 1-3 routes on Rainer (in one trip probably...). I have a bunch of routes in mind that could fit my party and was hoping to get some beta. One of us has little climbing experience, but he's a good skier and solid physically.

 

Has anyone any beta about length, exposure, fun factor or suitability for this time of the year (trip planned in the next 2 weeks), for the following routes:

Especially has anyone been there recently? At this time, the NP web site gives only very limited data or none at all for these routes.

 

- Fuhrer Finger

- Success Cleaver

- Success Glacier Headwall (called also Success finger or Success Glacier Couloir in Becky)

- Russell Cliffs

 

Thanks guys!

 

Olivier

[swissman]

Boy, I know how this kind of "need beta about bla bla bla" sounds: Gumby in training....

Still, not a real lot of replies (Thanks Donn for your pm). Please, don't tell me that noone on this site has a clue about the routes I'm talking about.

Is there anyone who climbs Rainer without using the common DC/Emmons/Kautz/Lib Ridge routes????

They're fun, but hey there are many other routes up there. Is there one or two less conventional climber out there?

 

Let's see if I can stir some shit..... hummm, I'm not sure I was insultant enough considering this site's standards.

 

Cheers, Olivier

[Dustin_B]

swissman said:

 

- Russell Cliffs

 

 

in August?

 

Please post TR if you make it.

 

PS - what do I know, I've only been up the Emmons, but we saw lots of shit coming of the russell cliffs in June.

[Dan_Larson]

Granted there are differences in conditions year to year. As a guide as to what is good at certain times of year. Mt. Rainier " A climbing guide" by Mike G. is a good thing to look over before . It will tell you lots of good stuff. I continue to read it when I have nothing better to do. I am a bit of a freak however.

[Thinker]

A few well timed calls to the ranger station could land you a talkative feller who just may have a little experience on those routes.

[swissman]

Hey, what do you know, I've got myself some reactions. Thanks for the input.

I'm totally aware that for all the routes listed above, August is pushing the envelope (especially this year, with the recent heat). But hey, I just decided to throw it out there to see if I would get some 1st hand data from whoever might have been this or that way recently. Long shot, but worth the try.

[skyclimb]

I agree that the Mount Rainier: Climbers Guide is a good source for fun reading. For me, any time is a good time on Rainier. Although I have only climbed a few routes, it seems that you can always find something fun to do. Just pick your route according rock-fall hazards, as August is very prone to this. Wait for a few months till ice consolodates many of the routes.

[skyclimb]

also finger was thin month ago. Out by now, as well I am sure as the successors.

[TeleRoss]

It's been a while, but we climbed the Finger on June 25, 26. Climbing conditions were generally good. But now you may encounter some difficulties when approaching the upper sections of the finger where the Upper Nisqually Glacier buts right up against the E. edge of the Wilson Headwall. Also when you reach the top of the Wilson Headwall and you have to cross the area where the Kautz and Nisqually Glaciers meet, crossing that broken up section may be problematic. The Success routes may be good, but from info I've heard, its generally much better to do when the route is fully snow covered which it may not be now. Anyway, good luck.

[Duchess]

I've spent the past week staring up at the Success Cleaver...there is virtually no snow on the route until about 11,000' and then very little. With all the the nasty crappy rock above and below, and such warm weather, I would probably avoid this corner of the mtn. Good luck with whatever you do.

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

Thank you

sincerely yourass>

[Fence_Sitter]

Harry_Pi said:

Hello capitalist!

Thank you

sincerely yourass>

 

i am nominating that as the funniest funnzy muff post yet! here's to ya commie!

[catbirdseat]

swissman said:

I've got myself a couple of days to go have fun in the hills.

Main goal is 1-3 routes on Rainer (in one trip probably...). I have a bunch of routes in mind that could fit my party and was hoping to get some beta. One of us has little climbing experience, but he's a good skier and solid physically.

 

Has anyone any beta about length, exposure, fun factor or suitability for this time of the year (trip planned in the next 2 weeks), for the following routes:

Especially has anyone been there recently? At this time, the NP web site gives only very limited data or none at all for these routes.

 

- Fuhrer Finger

- Success Cleaver

- Success Glacier Headwall (called also Success finger or Success Glacier Couloir in Becky)

- Russell Cliffs

 

Thanks guys!

 

Olivier

I think people are having a hard time taking you seriously. First you say you have a novice in your party and then you rattle off some more advanced routes. Finally you mention you are going to do them during the least favorable month of the year. Get Gauthier's book. It's pretty good.

[swissman]

Yeah, Catbird, I'm sure that when people read my post, their eyes rolled up so high they could have seen their own brains.

I know that it sounded totally silly, but I wanted to get some reactions about the current conditions. I didn't have the time to drive down there to see how looks now 1st hand. I read Gauthier's book, great info, very clear, everything is there. But I have no problems looking foolish every now and then and the post was to get other people opinion and I got it.

The beginner has climb ice and has been on tough terrain to get his turns in unskied couloirs. He's a novice as far as straight mountain climbing is involved though but I was confident that he'd be able to tackle the route's difficulties.

Now anyways, (we had settled for Kautz Glaicer BTW), we're not going anywhere anymore. We went to do Baker this week-end and the other one in our party twisted his knee bad on the trail heading out and we have can the climbing plans for this time. My two friends I planned climbing with live on the east coast and have to head back next week.

I guess that I'll be more careful on how I ask for beta next time.

Baker is in great shape and was fun.

[vegetablebelay]

Swissman,

 

Were you guys on a trip to Dome, Sininster, Gunsight a few weeks back? I saw a party of three there that sounds like your group.

[Pencil_Pusher]

Or for more info on Rainier, refer to Alex Van Steen's Climbing Rainier book or ask the dude himself. E-mail unknown but I bet the guy has a bit more experience than G-man. Alex is a guide though, so getting ahold of him may be harder than the dude sitting in a shack with a shitter (with appropriate khaki/green MRNP attire)

[Dan_Larson]

Pencil_Pusher said:

Or for more info on Rainier, refer to Alex Van Steen's Climbing Rainier book or ask the dude himself. E-mail unknown but I bet the guy has a bit more experience than G-man. Alex is a guide though, so getting ahold of him may be harder than the dude sitting in a shack with a shitter (with appropriate khaki/green MRNP attire)

I really do have to meet you P.P. and this time no chicken shit threatening P.M.'s You are an amazing idiot worthy of .......well at least a quick glance

[Rodchester]

A few well timed calls to the ranger station could land you a talkative feller who just may have a little experience on those routes.

 

Thinker....that is soo funny.

 

I would never listen to the Rangers at Rainier. They are so full of BS (and too often full of themselves). Sure there are a few (i.e. Mike G.) that know what they are talking about, but the vast majority are clueless or only provide disinformation in order to scare the Bundys, Griswalds, and Simpsons off the mountain.

 

 

 

 

[Dan_Larson]

There is a big difference between CLIMBING RANGER and the others who are there to do other jobs. Besides you usually get a message line when ya call. There are climbing rangers who will call you back if you leave a message. If ya go asking stupid questions however I am pretty sure the red light will go off and you will receive worse case scenario info about routes and weather

[Bill_Simpkins]

I agree. Last time at Muir, the Climbing Ranger told Dan the weather was going to be pretty bad and told me to go for it.

You must have had that crazy look in your eye.

 

Swissman: I got to tell you that not many people would not take you seriously, including myself.

 

The Climbing Rangers are up there a lot more than all of us. They've more than likely seen rescues and lots of crazy people. They also probably have an ok feel for the weather and the people that are going up. Yes some probably think they are hotshots, but still, they probably have a good feel for the mountain. Give'em a break.