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thelawgoddess

freesoloing in squamish

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I tried Pixie Corner and Jolly Roger and backed off of them both. Jolly Roger was more stemming without positive holds and my resolve just slowly melted until about 10m when I decided to downclimb (Later I saw somewhere that it is more difficult higher up?). I think the Pixie Corner decision was basically made on the ground. Rounded insecure finger locks soloing? hellno3d.gif

 

You really should check out the Clean Starts/Neat and Clean area. At Clean Starts there's I think 3 distinct cracks. Left to right it's a finger crack, hand crack, hand crack recessed in dihedral. I thought the right stuff looked easier but it wasn't. I tried the far right, got halfway up, switched to the middle, then really cringed on an insecure topout (grabbing grass hummock). Then before I left I thought I could climb the finger crack as high as I wanted then downclimb, and it turned out to be much easier! Bomber locks pretty much the whole way. Of course YMMV depending on your finger size and technique.

 

And I agree totally about Sugarloaf. Have you guys done that hand crack boulder problem through a roof that's just inside the jungle on the right (N) side of the Murrin Park parking lot? thumbs_up.gif

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Soloing is like drugs. Some people will ridicule and curse you for doing it whilst others will take you into their fold. Be careful however, we all know what happens when you OD. Take care and have fun.

I guess I can't really say what's the best to solosince I've only been to Squish twice. I've only gone solo on a few things up at the Octopus, the Zip, and I think the pixie corner. All were alot of fun though. Tata for now-

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texplorer said:

Soloing is like drugs. Some people will ridicule and curse you for doing it whilst others will take you into their fold. Be careful however, we all know what happens when you OD. Take care and have fun.

I guess I can't really say what's the best to solosince I've only been to Squish twice. I've only gone solo on a few things up at the Octopus, the Zip, and I think the pixie corner. All were alot of fun though. Tata for now-

 

the zip? what are the options there? 10a hands or 12a face? i'm scared to ask how many routes you did there? mabe there are others or mabe you just got way bigger ballz than i do... bigdrink.gif

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slot machine is definitely not a free-solo candidate for me -- too wide! but i did find a couple of pretty enjoyable 5.7's on krack rock at the bluffs. thumbs_up.gif

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