erik Posted January 24, 2002 Share Posted January 24, 2002 TALKING TO WALLSTEIN 3 ROUTES WITH ONE BEING A FIRST ASCENT DETAILS NEXT WEEK..... THE WEATHER HAS BEEN NEARLY PERFECT FOR THE ENTIRE TIME....... [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 24, 2002 Share Posted January 24, 2002 sure.... rub it in.... remind me that today it is +6 and raining in Lillooet GO WALLSTEIN GO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted January 26, 2002 Share Posted January 26, 2002 We had to cut our trip short because of the good weather. It was so nice I only got 3 rest days during my two weeks there. And those rest days still consisted of hiking two hours. (That actually wasn´t the reason I cut my trip short.) The weather was absolutely amazing from the time we showed up to the time we left. When I left El Chalten in was perfect blue skies and the pressure was still very high. We were able to complete 3 routes. The first being the Guilliamet via the Fonrouge route (I call it the FunRoute) It was reminisent of something like the royal arches in yosemite, 14 pitches the hardest being 5.10+. The next route we did was the Aguja Pollone. This formation is absolutely amazing. It is a giant fin jetting up through the glaicer. It had some the most spectacular climbing and exposure of any route I have done. At numerous points on the route I was actually liebacking the arete of the fin. When the climbing wasn´t on the arete it was perfect fingers, hands or fists. The topo showed the route as 8 pitches but we did it in 5 long pitches. The next route we did was a new route on the SE pillar of Cerro Pollone. The route had been attempted earlier in the season by some italtian guys but they were shut down by ice in the cracks and possibly a 60 foot 7" offwidth. This pitch went at 5.10a (like all good yosemite offwidths). The climbing on the route was once again amazing. There were three full pitches of almost perfect hands and a couple pitches of offwidths and squeze chimneys. We completed the route in 9 long 60m pitches. I think I was possibly the first person to ever stand on the summit of this pillar. My partner and I were amazed that classic moderate lines like this were still waiting first ascents. We scoped a few other lines on the wall that looked like thay would be a little more challenging (maybe for next year.) The trip was an absolute success in my eyes though we were only there for 2 weeks of our planned 7. I figure we got more climbing in during those two weeks than most people get in a whole season or even two seasons. In another few days I will be back in the states probably sitting at my desk job again. Oh how I can´t wait..... -Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted January 26, 2002 Share Posted January 26, 2002 Damn! Congratulations on great trip: Fun, summits, sun. And an FA to boot! Post some pics when you get back?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 27, 2002 Share Posted January 27, 2002 Right on dude! Way to break the mold! [ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 27, 2002 Share Posted January 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Right on dude! Way to break the mold![ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] BTW Lambitch I hate you . Mikey great! HA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted January 28, 2002 Share Posted January 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Right on dude! Way to break the mold![ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] What mold are you talking about? If its the one that turns all young kids into die-hard sport climbers, I broke that thing when I was 17 and went to Yosemite for my first time. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 28, 2002 Share Posted January 28, 2002 Oh, I just meant the spend alot of $ to go sit in the rain for a month or two mold...you know, just like we do here in Seattle! I guess technically the weather broke the mold huh... oh well,nice work! Yosemite makes for a good edumacation eh!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted January 28, 2002 Share Posted January 28, 2002 Well if that was the mold you were talking about I was actually kinda looking forward to it. I am ready to be home and just lounge around for a week or so. But I am in still in Santiago chile so it will be another couple of days until I will be home. 4 more airline meals. Yum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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