I am going to Dorado Needle

[Cpt.Caveman]

Tell me mtneer beta!!

 

I am so suck I fail on every moutnain.

 

It's a thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do you think I can do it!??

[daylward]

I have beta for you, how badly do you want it?

 

Tell me what your plan is... and have you been into that area before (McAllister glacier)?

 

Dan

[Fence_Sitter]

I have beta for you, how badly do you want it?

 

dood... no beta is worth that!!!!!!... dont sexually degrade yourself just for beta...

[Greg_W]

Could someone tape the holds for us and let us know how much chalk to take?

[Stefan]

I did it last year.

 

Took trail up to base of Eldorado. Traversed the glacier to the 8000 foot notch in the Tepeh ridge. Traversed down to the 7600+ col between Dorado Needle and Tepeh Towers where we made camp. Then traversed over to about 8200 feet on the north side of Dorado Needle. Then went up about 60-65 degree snow over an almost disappearing bergschrund to the ridge. Had solid low 5th class climbing to the summit on the ridge proper--about one pitch. We downclimbed the snow but had pickets to help us becuase it was one full ropelength. Back to camp. All in one day.

[daylward]

Greg_W said:

Could someone tape the holds for us and let us know how much chalk to take?

 

The holds are already taped, and you'll need about 13 lbs. of chalk; there are a couple of drippy sections right now.

[Greg_W]

daylward said:

Greg_W said:

Could someone tape the holds for us and let us know how much chalk to take?

 

The holds are already taped, and you'll need about 13 lbs. of chalk; there are a couple of drippy sections right now.

 

THanks, we really are so suck.

[Cpt.Caveman]

daylward said:

I have beta for you, how badly do you want it?

 

Tell me what your plan is... and have you been into that area before (McAllister glacier)?

 

Dan

 

My plan is to bring one piton one sling a hair net and some kiss army boots with hobnails in the bottoms. I am look to climb the standard route.

 

 

I have been to McAllister glacier before.

 

[Greg_W]

Cpt.Caveman said:

 

My plan is to bring one piton one sling a hair net and some kiss army boots with hobnails in the bottoms. I am look to climb the standard route.

 

There's no way you can move fast with that much gear; I'd ditch the sling.

[daylward]

Cpt.Caveman said:

 

My plan is to bring one piton one sling a hair net and some kiss army boots with hobnails in the bottoms. I am look to climb the standard route.

 

 

I have been to McAllister glacier before.

 

Oh my, that brings up many more questions that you must answer before my beta can be of any value to you:

 

1) Do you realize your hairnet will get tangled in your hobnails? What steps are you going to take to prevent that?

2) Do you want to do it car-to-car in a day?

3) Could you stand on the upper McAllister glacier and point toward where you think Dorado Needle is and be confident you're pointing to the correct peak?

 

Anyway, to prevent this from drawing out any longer than it absolutely has to, I'll assume you've found a solution to question number 1). If your answer to question 2) is anything other than "absolutely", make sure you bring overnight gear. If your answer to 3) is anything other than "absolutely", make sure you take the proper measures to enhance your knowledge of the terrain, then ask yourself question 3) again. Repeat as many times as necessary. Once this is done, you should go straight away before the terrain changes. Attain your previous position on the McAllister glacier in roughly the same way you did before. When it comes time to camp, I recommend doing so at the col between the Inspiration and McAllister glaciers (near the Tepeh Towers). Make sure you don't fall into crevasses, and that you know how to get yourself out of crevasses if you accidentally do. Once you have attained your position on the McAllister glacier, point at Dorado Needle and begin walking towards it, following the easiest possible path (which should be obvious to you, considering how enhanced your knowledge of the terrain should be by this time). When you reach the rock, begin climbing up it, making sure you limit yourself to the taped holds, and liberally applying chalk to all damp areas you encounter. Soon you will be on the summit, which should be a condition that satisfies your stated goal.

 

Any questions?

[erik]

daylward said:

Any questions?

 

may i go pee now?

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

daylward said:

Cpt.Caveman said:

 

My plan is to bring one piton one sling a hair net and some kiss army boots with hobnails in the bottoms. I am look to climb the standard route.

 

 

I have been to McAllister glacier before.

 

Oh my, that brings up many more questions that you must answer before my beta can be of any value to you:

 

1) Do you realize your hairnet will get tangled in your hobnails? What steps are you going to take to prevent that?

2) Do you want to do it car-to-car in a day?

3) Could you stand on the upper McAllister glacier and point toward where you think Dorado Needle is and be confident you're pointing to the correct peak?

 

Anyway, to prevent this from drawing out any longer than it absolutely has to, I'll assume you've found a solution to question number 1). If your answer to question 2) is anything other than "absolutely", make sure you bring overnight gear. If your answer to 3) is anything other than "absolutely", make sure you take the proper measures to enhance your knowledge of the terrain, then ask yourself question 3) again. Repeat as many times as necessary. Once this is done, you should go straight away before the terrain changes. Attain your previous position on the McAllister glacier in roughly the same way you did before. When it comes time to camp, I recommend doing so at the col between the Inspiration and McAllister glaciers (near the Tepeh Towers). Make sure you don't fall into crevasses, and that you know how to get yourself out of crevasses if you accidentally do. Once you have attained your position on the McAllister glacier, point at Dorado Needle and begin walking towards it, following the easiest possible path (which should be obvious to you, considering how enhanced your knowledge of the terrain should be by this time). When you reach the rock, begin climbing up it, making sure you limit yourself to the taped holds, and liberally applying chalk to all damp areas you encounter. Soon you will be on the summit, which should be a condition that satisfies your stated goal.

 

Any questions?

 

If I remove the taped holds does that mean I will increase the rating for future ascents?

 

What's the extra beta for car to car in a day?

 

Yes I can identify the Mountain. It looks like this last time I saw it.

 

 

 

[daylward]

Cpt.Caveman said:

 

 

If I remove the taped holds does that mean I will increase the rating for future ascents?

 

What's the extra beta for car to car in a day?

 

Yes I can identify the Mountain. It looks like this last time I saw it.

 

 

 

That's a beauty of a picture you got there, but I don't believe it was taken from the McAllister Glacier, I'd say more like near the West Ridge of Eldorado, on the Marble Creek side? I was under the impression that the "standard route" went up the other side of the peak; mostly snow with just a pitch or two of low-5th rock at the top (depending on time of year), as is pictured in Selected Climbs vol. 2 (which is also the standard descent route). However, I'd have to say the routes on the Marble Creek side of the peak are much better and if you're going to hike all the way in there you may as well do something worthwhile. The route I did does not match up with anything in Nelson or Beckey; we got on the rock partway up the couloir on the left, about where the little point of snow shows in your picture. Our route followed ridges upward and crossed some gullys rightward, maximum difficulty 5.7, taking us to the summit in about 6 pitches. The rock was mostly very good. I think you could find a good route just about anywhere you wanted on that face, so as long as you head generally upward I think you will find yourself soon on the summit without significant routefinding difficulties.

 

If you remove the taped holds, you will increase the difficulty of future ascents, but you will also increase the difficulty of your own ascent much more, because there are a whole lot of taped holds!

 

Yes, the beta for "car to car in a day" is different; the main difference being that you should not burden yourself with overnight gear. Also, you should be at least as fit as a very very very fit person. Possible itinerary: Leave Eldorado Cr. by 3:00 am, get to the Inspiration glacier by 7 or 8, cross to the Klawatti over the shoulder of Eldorado and to the McAllister and then down through the Dorado Needle/Eldorado col and across to the base of the route by 11 or noon, simul-climb the route within 2 hours, descend with one rappel down the other side back to the McAllister, hike back up to the Klawatti, and reverse your approach, making it back to the car by 8:00 or 9:00 pm.

 

Has anyone here done Dorado Needle car-to-car in a day? How about Early Morning Spire?

 

Dan

[Cpt.Caveman]

Hello sea creature -

 

Thanks for the tape holds. I am not very very very fit person nor am I implying routes form the pictured side of the mountain are the standard ones. And yes it was taken from Marble Creek cirque.

 

I will be removing taped holds. If I left at 3:01 do you think I would make it in a day?