JoshK Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 After much talk about it, I got around to beating myself up on this one yesterday. Skisports came along for the beating. We decided to start with Fernow, figuring it was the most out of the way and difficult. Thanks to my routefinding (or lack thereof) we ended up climbing up towards the summit too early and took a gully involving a few low 5th class moves. It also brought us up on the wrong side of the summit structure, requiring us to traverse a ridge for a few hundred feet to the summit. This mistake ended up being the most fun climbing of the whole trip. After Fernow we made our way back to the 7,700 foot saddle and went up Seven Fingered Jack. Not much to say about this one, it's a giant pile of skree from the leory basin side. We thought briefly about trying to stay as high up on 7FJ as possible and then ascend Maude from the 7FJ/Maude col, but the climbing looked like it would be too difficult that way so we dropped down and traversed. The climb of Maude is basically done from any number of west facing gullies. They all generally end a few hundred feet below the summit which is reached by walking up grassy slopes. We descended Maude by the standard south route, dropping into another lovely skree gully at 8000 feet which takes you down to another basin above leroy basin proper. A nice trail leads back to the middle leroy basin and the main trail. Summary: In all honesty, this was a lot easier of a day than expected. I was prepared for a full on death march, but it really wasn't. We went at a liesurly pace, took pictures, breaks, etc. and enjoyed the area. This morning, I can certainly feel the aftermath, however. Note 1: Leroy basin and this area of the entiats is reeeeallly beautiful. What a great place. Note 2: I have never seen nicer "unmaintained" trails. I had never been up to leroy basin and when I saw the sign stating "unmaintained trail" at the turnoff I was expecting brush. Instead we found a trail nicer than many maintained ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meganerd Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 Hey I was the guy in the green bivy sack sleepily poking his head up in the morning as you guys rushed by. I was tentatively trying to do the same thing although over two days but the day before, I got about a half mile out of camp and decided that I was too tired to climb anything. I then proceeded to get 15 HOURS of sleep (not straight through) which you witnessed the tail end of. That morning as you guys climbed Fernow, I got a quarter mile out of camp towards Maude and fell in a creek............ As I sit there in the creek I realized that there was a layer of ice on everything near the creek including the stepping stones. So, with right side soaked and temperature near freezing, I decided to go down as I was having trouble finding motivation anyway. I'm afraid I'll have to disagree about the beauty of Leroy Creek Basin. Wasn't that inspired about that one. I'm sure it would have been nicer from up high though. Bleh, that was probably my stupidest trip so far this summer. Nice job though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 I was the skinny guy on the beach, you kicked sand in my face then stole my girl. Good job though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 6, 2003 Author Share Posted July 6, 2003 wayne1112 said: I was the skinny guy on the beach, you kicked sand in my face then stole my girl. Good job though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 (edited) not that I have a whole lot of places to compare it against, but I'd have to agree with JoshK about the Leroy Basin thing. I did Fernow from Leroy Basin last year and I still think it's one of the most beautiful places I've been. I'll be heading back later this year for Seven-Fingered and Maude. edit: oh yeah, great job! Edited July 10, 2003 by Ursa_Eagle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 Way to go, guys. That threesome has been on my list for two seasons now, but I've still never been to Leroy Creek. Nice to hear it's not only doable, but appealing as well (something I need after our thrash at Perfect Pass last weekend). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejams Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 Way to go guys! 3 niner's in a day not to shabby. But ehemm, why didn't you tag Bonanza as well it is just across that little creek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 leejams said: But ehemm, why didn't you tag Bonanza as well it is just across that little creek. Please tell me you are kidding, Lee. I think it's like 2 drainages away. ACross big creek, then across railroad creek. main, that would be seriously burly for a day. That's one I'm willing to say is downright impossible...not bonanza in a day, but all 4 9000s in the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 How about all 10 - 9ers in a week?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 12, 2003 Author Share Posted July 12, 2003 wayne1112 said: How about all 10 - 9ers in a week?? ok, let's see if I remember... Goode Logan Buckner Fernow Maude SFJ Jack Shuksan Stuart Bonanza right? Totally doable. Would be fun. Now the question is would you do whatever routes make for the easiest (quickest) summit on all of them or do the most classic route on each? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 I think you would have to do the north ridge of stuart, and the north faces of buckner and shuskan but the rest could go by the easiest way. That would be one burly ass weak your feet would never be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejams Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 Please tell me you are kidding, Lee. I think it's like 2 drainages away. ACross big creek, then across railroad creek. main, that would be seriously burly for a day. That's one I'm willing to say is downright impossible...not bonanza in a day, but all 4 9000s in the area. NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejams Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 wayne1112 said: How about all 10 - 9ers in a week?? Wayne there is not doubt in my mind you now have Josh's undevided attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 13, 2003 Share Posted July 13, 2003 For at least the next few minutes?I think its pretty world class to do in 10+days. I gave it some logistical thought myself you would need shuttles and maybe a float plane to realistically do that . Hell,I am happy to have just done 10 summits in just less than a month.But nothing is impossible, just why the hell would you wanna do something like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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