Ptarmigan Traverse Peaks

[TimL]

For those out there that have actually done the traverse, what were you favorite summits? Of course Dome looks the best but for a quick trip what would be the quickest peaks to climb and keep moving. Thanks.

[Jens]

Mt. Formidable is about the coolest mountain in the area plus it is not to much a diversion as far as distance.

 

Have fun!

 

[mtnnut]

You usually can add one or two summits in per day without having to be too much of a chestbeater. Depends on how many days you give yourself to complete the traverse as to how much time you have.

 

I've often heard of folks that are physically taxed enough that all they manage to pull off is just getting to the other end even if they take 5 days or more.

 

Of the things along the way, Spire Point is one of the few that encourage you to bring a few pieces of pro. You could bring a few slings and pick up some stones to use as low-tech chockstones to save weight.

 

Dome adds some time, but is probably worth it since it gives a different view that you wouldn't see otherwise.

 

Spider is fine, as long as you use the snow routes on the south and stay off the rock (just an ice axe is all that is needed). Actually, it is probably easier than Formidable for that reason.

 

Edited July 3, 2003 by mtnnut

[Kyle_Flick]

I thought Mix-Up was the most fun to climb on clean granite. Formidable was nice. I wouldn't recommend the choss pile of Spider. LeConte was a nice viewpoint and quick to ascend. Old Guard and Sentinal could be by-passed. Skip Spire Point as there are dangerously loose sections (on the NE route). Dome is a must since you don't have to deal with the Bachelor Creek approach.

[Jim]

Formidible, Magic, Le Conte, and Dome. Were the best.

Ditto the above on Spider - yuk - nice views, crummy rock. Don't rush thru this area - if you have the time camp high at the cols if you can instead of down low where most parties do. Have to do this again before I get creaky(er).

[TimL]

Sweet. I'm trying to make the most out of a possible 3 day trip so we won't be bring any rock pro and not much rope. Looks like Sentinel, Spire Point, Le Conte & Dome would be possibly reasonable. Any beta on the quickest way up and down these guys? Thanks.

[JoshK]

Tim, in my opinion, skip spire point and instead of ascending to spire col from white rock lacks, ascend the dana glacier to the dana/dome col. This brings you out right near the summit of dome peak.

[ski_photomatt]

JoshK,

Did you climb the Dana Gl to the Dana/Dome col? The Dana is split into two distinct parts, separated by a steep looking rock ridge. From White Rock Lakes, the right hand side climbs to Spire Col and Spire Pt, the left to the Dana/Dome Col. My question is, what is the easiest way to access the left hand side? Contour around the toe of the rock ridge? This would give very easy access to the top of Dome and to the Chickamin.

 

[ncascademtns]

On the south side of Sentinel there is a ramp that heads westward up, then scramble to the summit. The snow should run high enough to get you on the ramp.

Spire Point has a couple of pitches to climb on the north side. You'll need pro for that.

Formidable on the south side is class 3-4. I think I put in 1 piece to make a move. Spider on the south side gully will take pickets and crampons. LeConte is a scramble. Never made it over to Old Guard.

Dome is straight forward.

 

[JoshK]

ski_photomatt said:

JoshK,

Did you climb the Dana Gl to the Dana/Dome col? The Dana is split into two distinct parts, separated by a steep looking rock ridge. From White Rock Lakes, the right hand side climbs to Spire Col and Spire Pt, the left to the Dana/Dome Col. My question is, what is the easiest way to access the left hand side? Contour around the toe of the rock ridge? This would give very easy access to the top of Dome and to the Chickamin.

 

Yes, we climbed the "left part" of the dana glacier. It is an easy traverse below the rock rib you mention to gain that section of the glacier. At least it was when ew did it on skis nearly a month ago now, but it wasn't steep, so I can't imagine it getting much more difficult.

[ski_photomatt]

Yes, we climbed the "left part" of the dana glacier. It is an easy traverse below the rock rib you mention to gain that section of the glacier. At least it was when ew did it on skis nearly a month ago now, but it wasn't steep, so I can't imagine it getting much more difficult.

 

Thanks. That appears to be the easiest way but Beckey describes another way (one with a rappel I think, but my memory is hazy, this may have been another description).

 

I have a photo of the route from September when we walked it and it looks somewhat non-trivial with some crevasses to negotiate, but the photo isn't the best and it's hard to tell.

[JoshK]

In June, when we did it, it was very trivial, but I could see where some large crevasses may open up. The col between the Dana and Dome glaciers was very flat, so I can't imagine a large moat developing there, but who knows. I also read Beckey's description but gambled on my memory of the col being correct from when I was on Dome peak a few weeks early. Indeed it was and I can't imagine an easier way to get to the summit of Dome or the Dome glacier from the Dana.

 

-josh