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Posted

I'd be pretty surprised if there is an untrammeled square inch on Mt. Hood. Climbing a peak with no previous knowledge though can be an invigorating experience, especially for someone with a good imagination. I sometimes think that given the dynamic nature of alpine routes, almost every ascent is, in a way, a first ascent. Rock routes vary little over time unless holds are broken, bolts drilled etc. Alpine routes vary tremendously depending on snow pack, weather conditions, snow cconditions, etc. I climbed Cooper Spur in November 2000, in a year with exceptionally low snowfall and before the winter snows had really formed the route to its "normal" state. None of the guidebooks I read afterwards mentioned anything about the mixed climbing we encountered.

I'm not knowledgable enough about ice climbs but I've wondered if the same is true for them as well.

What are your thoughts?

Rob

Posted

Yeah, ice climbing guidebooks all lie, I went to Lillooet in July and there wasnt even a smidgen of ice on Honeyman Falls! damn guidebook didnt say a fuckin thing about that rolleyes.gif" border="0

Posted

Hey Will, either you are a belligerent drunk and have had too much scotch or you ran out of weed. Take it easy, bro. Billy would actually qualify as a partner for your expedition, 'cept he's married and has a kid now and doesn't have two months. I think his comment was rhetorical, not pointed at you. Take another bong hit and chill out!

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by David Parker:
Hey Will, either you are a belligerent drunk and have had too much scotch or you ran out of weed.

Both

Billy would actually qualify as a partner for your expedition, 'cept he's married and has a kid now and doesn't have two months.

Hell Dave, there's loads of peeps climbing that grade,that's nothing special, it's the other things that weed out potential people. From what you say above he doesn't meet most of the criteria I laid out.

Take another bong hit and chill out!
See above.

Posted

I guess all I was saying is that if Billy got your goat (no pun intended)then maybe you took it a little too personally. I know Billy better than anyone else on this site and you might have the wrong impression and it might change if you really knew him. I think that goes for a lot of people on this site. Hell, I thought Cpt Caveman was the biggest asshole until I met him. Now I KNOW he's the biggest asshole.....just kidding! Most people don't figure out I'm an asshole UNTIL they meet me. Ahhshit, I give up...who really gives a fuck!

Posted

This is RURP:Mr. William: Here is my response to your call.

1. Zion experience (should have done several wall routes there). Zionist experience? Is Lebanon, '82, good enough?

2. Can lead SANDSTONE 5.11, A3+A3+ is for babies.

3. Is a college grad and/or good writer (preferably published)RURP is more than adequate.

4. Is unemployed, or willing to become unemployed.This means you aren't paying all of RURP's expenses? Show me the money and I'll show you the Big Wall excellence.

5. Is not a Jesus freakWas not Jesus himself a"freak" in his day? Nothing wrong with J.C!

6. Partakes of the devil weedSorry, but I grew out of that when I was about 15. [sleep]

7. Has own transportation (not so important), and own wall gear (very important.I have wall gear as far as they eye can see.

8. Can party like a rock star and still be responsible and get shit doneWhat a bold statement of contradictions! Maybe you should think again about this criterium.

9. Enjoys cheap beer, fast women, and expensive scotchI prefer expensive beer and penurious Scottish women.

RURP has spoken.

[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: RURP ]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by RURP:
This is RURP:I prefer expensive beer and penurious Scottish women.

RURP has spoken.

[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: RURP ]

I'm curious RURP, why you'd prefer barren, unyielding women. Why not some hottie to play the slobber blues on your meat whistle?

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