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denaliduck

? on Eldo/Buckner

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Question for locals...where would be the best place to put a camp if I was looking to link up a N face of Buckner and Eldorado climb? And, what route would you recommend on Eldo that's comparable to NF of Buckner?

 

Thx in advance...

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If locals means folks from marblemount, your in trouble. If you mean us goofballs then here:

 

 

Why don't you just bivy wherever it is when you get too tired to continue? Here in WA theres water eveywhere and always a place to bivy, so just go and then stop. I don't have a map handy, but that's quite the hump.

 

I guess the ne face of eldo would be the route that's similiar to buckner. Once again, that would be quite the hump in! I'd bivy below the E. ridgeof Eldorado after the slog there, cuz you got the whole mtn to traverse (and you'd be back at your camp on the descent).

 

Take photos! That will be a beautiful (x)-many days in the hills.

 

ps, if you were gonna do each one separately from the car, just bivy in you car at the trailhead. we don't "camp" 'round here.

Edited by michael_layton

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denaliduck said:

Question for locals...where would be the best place to put a camp if I was looking to link up a N face of Buckner and Eldorado climb? And, what route would you recommend on Eldo that's comparable to NF of Buckner?

 

Thats a long traverse, so home will be wherever you hang your hat. Assuming you start at the Eldo side, you'd approach and climb Eldo on the first day, maybe camp at the base of East ridge there, then take about a half day to get in the vicinity of Buckner. I guess if you were in shape you could get up Buckner on the second day, camp on top? Then head out on day 3?

 

I dont know if there is a route on Eldo comparable to NF Buckner. The steeper snow routes on Eldo arent really that steep or long.

 

 

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Yeah, I just need to get my map out and see where I'm at up in the Cascade Pass area. I'd like to do NF Buckner but that might be a bit of a trek to get over to Eldo too. I'm looking to spend 3-4 days up in the area.

Maybe Logan...

 

Thanks for the info.

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denaliduck said:

Yeah, I just need to get my map out and see where I'm at up in the Cascade Pass area. I'd like to do NF Buckner but that might be a bit of a trek to get over to Eldo too. I'm looking to spend 3-4 days up in the area.

Maybe Logan...

 

Thanks for the info.

 

If you are quick, you may just want to think about bivying at your car in the lot and doing both NF buckner and NE face or E ridge of Eldo both as day climbs on seperate days. Both are very doable and will be a lot less horrific without overnight gear.

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You could also do the north east face of eldo in a day but I would wait till aug or sept better ice

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That's a long ways. I'm sure how someone else would approach that traverse but mine would be by car. Climb Eldo- drive over then climb Buckner. If you really wanted to walk around the north sides of Torment and Forbidden it might work.... Never done it.... I prefer the car transfer.

 

If your looking for long snow traverse look at doing something on the Eldo - Insipration- McAllister Icecap instead.

 

The NE Face of Eldo would be a worthy day climb. I wouldnt bivy if I just wanted to snag that route but if I did, I would just bivy before the gully drop to Roush Creek Drainage. That would cut down carrying your gear up high and make you move faster with lighter packs up to the objective......

 

 

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Do you access E side of Eldo via Cascade River Road?

I'm too lazy to get my maps out and I've never approached it...just been in Boston Basin.

I'm assuming to do NF of Buckner, go to end of road, up around and over Sahale and out across Boston glacier to the bottom of the route. But I really don't know how to access Eldo.

thanks...

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yes you can approach eldo from cascade river road. Theres a parking lot and a gate right after the trailhead. I would agree with others here do them in two seperate outings unless you really want to walk the north side of forbidden.

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you can do that as a great ski tour... but to climb everything on the way your pack might be a bit heavy

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