Wall Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 I grew up climbing in the PNW and have recently landed in Nebraska.... it sucks. However, DT is only 3.5 hrs away and the Neddles distict in the Black Hills is only 1-2 hrs away ! I have been climbing some of the classics in the hills like Gossamer and Garfield Goes to Washington near Mount Rushmore. Two weekends ago I did my first DT climb. The Durrance Rt. of course. When my partner did not show I started bumming around the campground at daylight looking for anyone who looked like they were heading up. Luckily I found two guys from Montana who thought they may need someone to lead the crux pitch! We hooked up and were the first ones on the RT., closely followed by atleast three other teams. Before the climb I read a lot of forums about the Durrance Rt. and they all seemed to say that pitch 2, the crux, which is off-width crack climbing is way harder than 5.7. Well, I climbed it without even thinking about it and I am only a 5.8 to 5.9 leader!!!! If anyone is headed to DT don't worry about the crux pitch being harder than 5.7. There are plenty of holds and two cracks to chose from. You may want to take a size four cam to protect near the top though or you will have to run it out! Other than that the climb was steller. Its not Leavenworth or the Early Winter Spires but it was certainly a classic. Happy climbing to all back in the PNW and I can't wait till I get back out there to join ya. Peace P.S. I heard that last weekend (5-17 ish) a girl rapped off the end of her rope decending the tower.... anyone over there hear anything? Quote
carolyn Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 Glad you had fun over there. A friend of mine was planning a trip out there a few weeks ago, but got rained out. We are now planning a trip for early fall. I hear it is a really fun climb. About the accident. A customer in the store was telling us about it last night. His partner witnessed her fall. How awful. I guess one rope she was rapping off of was a 50m, the other a 60m. No knots at the ends. I think he said the fall was about 300 feet. It was fatal. Of course this is all 3rd party info. Still pretty sad. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 NICE work wall!!!!!!! Drink some and enjoy the flatland.... Quote
Thinker Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 Where in Nebraska are you? I've heard reports of some decent limestone that's been developed near Valentine. Any beta on that? I did my first lead in the SD Needles, technically in the Rushmore Needles....roughly the back side of Mt Rushmore. Check out the Conn Traverse near Sylvan Lake. The Conns are legendary in the area. Quote
ctuller Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 Ahh. the Durrance on Devils Tower. That was my first lead. Truly a very fun climb. Quote
Thinker Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 If you can overlook the smelly impacts from over use..... A 'classic' for sure. Quote
ctuller Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 yeah I'm sure. I was last there about 14 years ago and it was kinda busy than too. Quote
ScottP Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 That place is pretty cool. The only route I have ever done is Soler (5.9). It is a worthy objective. Do it early or late, cause the heat can be an issue. Quote
Thinker Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 (edited) Soler is one of my favorites. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=832&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=831&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=833&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 damn it, Jim, I'm an engineer...not an IT guy...... how does this image thing work with photos from the cc.com photo section? Edited May 22, 2003 by Thinker Quote
ScottP Posted May 23, 2003 Posted May 23, 2003 Thinker said: Soler is one of my favorites. Judging by the boot polished rock on the approach ledge, you're not alone. Obvious spots for feet were slick as glass. Quote
chucK Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 Thinker said: Soler is one of my favorites. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=832&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=831&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=833&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 damn it, Jim, I'm an engineer...not an IT guy...... how does this image thing work with photos from the cc.com photo section? Hey man! Those pictures were either confusing or TOTALLY SUCKY! Quote
Thinker Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 Wall said: where is the Conn traverse located at? The Conn Traverse is located a stone's throw from Sylvan Lake, which is near the junction of Highways 87 and 89. The gift shop sells guidebooks, including a little paperback of climbs right around the lake. (fyi, there's also a 'Conn Traverse' on the Durrance route on Devil's Tower) The classic guidebook for the whole Needles area is "Touch the Sky" by Paul Piana. It includes a wealth of historical info and large pull-out maps of the needles. Quote
mneagle Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 My wife and I just got back from our first trip to the area as well. Incredible rock and a paved approach trail rather than a bushwhack through slide alder and Devil's Club! We connected Broken tree with Assemblyline on the first day (6, 10a, 9, 5) and then Belle Fourche Buttress with the direct start and the Peterson variation to finish (9, 10b, 10a, 5). The handcrack on Assemblyine and the finger crack on BFB are unreal. We also stopped through Fremont Canyon and Dome Rock for some excellent granite, solitude and stiff grades. Tons of BLM land and free camping out there. Note: The KOA in front of DT shows Close Encounter's of the Third Kind seven nights a week on an outside screen. And for a real return to your childhood, go across the street and buy a pack of Close Encounter's trading cards, complete with stale gum. Quote
lemon Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Thinker said: ...I did my first lead in the SD Needles, technically in the Rushmore Needles....roughly the back side of Mt Rushmore. Check out the Conn Traverse near Sylvan Lake. The Conns are legendary in the area. Thinker, are you from SODAK? What the hell were you doing way out the middle of nowhere? Just curious 'cause I grew up there before joining the Navy. Quote
Paul_detrick Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 mneagle, how do the grades there compare to other basalt climbing places. I have allways wanted to climb there, and will but I don't know how long I will be able to stay, and would like to climb some harder routes.(at least for me) So say vantage 10b to DT 10b, or does that sound anal. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 and i always though it was a volcanic neck eocene sill intrusion Quote
Thinker Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 lemon said: Thinker said: ...I did my first lead in the SD Needles, technically in the Rushmore Needles....roughly the back side of Mt Rushmore. Check out the Conn Traverse near Sylvan Lake. The Conns are legendary in the area. Thinker, are you from SODAK? What the hell were you doing way out the middle of nowhere? Just curious 'cause I grew up there before joining the Navy. Lemon, I'm not from SD, but have done time in the area. Just the other day at the pub I was reminiscing about the limestone sport routes at Falling Rock outside Rapid City, Custer County sherriff's deputies (think Larry the Tool lookalikes), and the quartzite at the other end of the state at Pallisades State Park. I've climbed in SD, WY, MN, KS, MO...and wished I'd found some rock in NE and IA. I was utterly shocked to see Kansas' Fall River area featured in one of the climbing rags last year or the year before. From my recollection it was about as big and exciting as Exit 38's Trestle area. But, in Kansas I guess they take what they can get....anybody else climbed there? Quote
slothrop Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Whoa! Climbing in Kansas and Missouri? Is there anything near Kansas City? Quote
Thinker Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 (edited) Why, do you go there often? Off the top of my head I remember 2 place right in Kansas City. There's a park in a relatively bad neighborhood with polished limestone sprot climbs, and some bouldering in Swope? park. I'll snoop around for more details. There's a trail that runs thru MO right along the Missouri River with huge limestone bluffs along it...I think it was an old railway that's been turned into a bike path. For some reason all the crags were closed to climbing. I think it was to 'protect' the bikers and hikers from rockfall or something. Anyone know if that's still the case? One of the coolest things you can do in that area is head down towards Columbia, MO and cave the Devil's Icebox. It's in a state park and requires permits, etc. Check it out. edit: it's the aptly named "Cliff Drive" that has the limestone sprot climbs. Toula's Rock n Road had decent directions. Sam's Throne in Arkansas is a short drive away, too. Edited June 2, 2003 by Thinker Quote
Dru Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 slothrop said: Whoa! Climbing in Kansas and Missouri? Is there anything near Kansas City? Rock City Kansas! If you like 8 foot high round mudstone boulders, Ive been told it cant be beat! They look like giant paper wasp nests lying on the ground. Quote
mneagle Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Paul_detrick said: mneagle, how do the grades there compare to other basalt climbing places. I have allways wanted to climb there, and will but I don't know how long I will be able to stay, and would like to climb some harder routes.(at least for me) So say vantage 10b to DT 10b, or does that sound anal. One of the biggest differences is in the length of the routes and the sustained nature of the climbing. You have to seek out rests and milk them for all they are worth before launching up again. The best comparison to WA climbing is probably Tieton. If you can climb 5.9 or 5.10 there you can probably get up it at Devil's Tower, although to get the redpoint you'll need good endurance. Quote
slothrop Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 My dad lives outside of Leavenworth. There's not much to do outdoors there, especially in the summer, other than mow the five acres and drink lots of Sam's Club pop. I'd love to know of a place to go for some climbing next time I'm out to visit. I've been to Swope Park but wasn't looking for boulders at the time. Lemme know if you dig up any more info. Quote
Thinker Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 see the 'edit' on my post above. Rock n Road is probably your best bet. Also check out the local university climbing clubs for some leads. Quote
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