Peter_Puget Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 demanding the new Leavwenworth Guidebook! PP Quote
dberdinka Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 What are we missing in the old one? A bunch of over-bolted contivances on every piece of rock more than 12' tall? Or am I mistaken and there actually are new routes of quality showing up? There, something to talk about. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 20, 2003 Author Posted May 20, 2003 What negativity. What inspires such posts? Anyway considering that the old one is hard to find if you don’t have one or lost your copy, you are missing EVERYTHING! But it would be nice to have a groovy topo of Pearly Gates or directions to the Criss Cross Cracks - which are the best cracks in the area. PP Quote
klar404 Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 (edited) Here is something I chuffed up for poor Peter....... it so sad really....... Anyone done this? Viktor can OBVIOUSLY draw better than me! Edited May 20, 2003 by klar404 Quote
erik Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 SNAAKES IT FURTHER EAST THEN THAT THATS NOT THE "NEW" BOLTED LINE WITH BOLTS NEXT TO GEAR PLACEMENTS IS IT?? YOU GUYS NOTICE HOW MANY HORIZONTAL GEAR PLACEMENTS HAVE BEEN GETTING BOLTS AS OF RECENT IN THE ICICLE??? I SURE HAVE. Quote
klar404 Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 I didn't think most of the bolts were that bad.... It's nothing like Codor buttfest. There is another set of anchors up high and right that was for a relatively clean looking crack. We didn't do it.It only had anchor bolts. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 20, 2003 Author Posted May 20, 2003 Nice topo. Forget the bolts tell us about the route. I gather you liked it. PP Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 vik told me last weekend most likely the book will be out before first of june but after memorial wkend...or was it coming out this memorial weekend...ahh, forget it... Who give a fuk; it will be out soon... just hold your horses! AND there is definitely more bolted horizontal cracks these days... What gives??? (crackbolter? or slap? wanna say anything here????) keep it real dudes... if there is a killer rp placement don't bolt it... run it out like the brits! Quote
klar404 Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Szyjakowski said: AND there is definitely more bolted horizontal cracks these days... What gives??? (crackbolter? or slap? wanna say anything here????) keep it real dudes... if there is a killer rp placement don't bolt it... run it out like the brits! I couldn't agree more! You should go check out the route and see for yourself. I thought there were maybe a couple of extraneous bolts. And yeah, peter, its pretty fun but needs more travel.The last pitch is pretty sweet. Quote
chucK Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Climbed at Bathtub Dome and the Condomorphine route last weekend. The bolts on CA are a crazy . Man, talk about a low stress climb . I've never seen anything like it. Bathtub Dome is cool. Quite a contrast. Those two 5.9 routes are . Heady leads. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 21, 2003 Author Posted May 21, 2003 Well I guess I can hold out for another week or two. Can't wait for the new guide tho. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 The new book will be hopelessly inacurate after I warm up the pickle forks and remove all the bolts beside gear placements. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Retrosaurus said: The new book will be hopelessly inacurate after I warm up the pickle forks and remove all the bolts beside gear placements. ahh you need to borrow another crowbar, etc. call me. I will be home f-m this weekend. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 21, 2003 Author Posted May 21, 2003 Hey stop turning this vital thread into a snoozefest. But since you brought up bolts, does anyone remember if the bolts on Stevens Pass Motel are old ¼” ones that I seem to remember. Does anyone else think that they were placed in completely bogus positions? Does the crack take TCUs well? I remember stoppers were at best a pain to place and the crack being shallow. PP Quote
TimL Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 I've looked at SPM on rap and it looks like it would take gear well as you should know. The bolts look good to me. the only thing that looked scary was the top. I think the pin below the top looked old and rusty but it looked like you could get something in. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 21, 2003 Author Posted May 21, 2003 I know it takes pro, I was just wondering how TCUs worked! Haven’t been on it since my rack had TCUs. Now what about those bolts! PP Quote
slaphappy Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 Szyjakowski said: vik told me last weekend most likely the book will be out before first of june but after memorial wkend...or was it coming out this memorial weekend...ahh, forget it... Who give a fuk; it will be out soon... just hold your horses! AND there is definitely more bolted horizontal cracks these days... What gives??? (crackbolter? or slap? wanna say anything here????) keep it real dudes... if there is a killer rp placement don't bolt it... run it out like the brits! Yeah, I did it all... Quote
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