Roots: Sport versus Gear Climbing

[dbb]

The extensive thread on ice brought back an old topic in my mind: Is the better way to becoming a good rock climber in the mountains on gear, starting as a sport climber? Clipping bolts until your comfortable in the 10's and then hop right down a couple grades on gear.

From my experience, I started from ground one on gear. Slowly working my way through the grades, and becoming nearly solid at each before pushing onto the next.

I also have a friend who, up until lately, has been entirely leading in the gym/sport atmosphere. He linked this up with his general mountaineering experience to start leading .8s in the mountains. This all in the space of, say a year or so.

We can save the chat on boldness and moderateness for another thread, for I'm talking about a strategy for someone who has the desire/boldness/whatever to climb harder. Harder is obviously different for everybody, but you know what I mean. Think of it as a race to lead .10 in the mountains. Who will win, and who will be the safer or better climber?

 

[Rodchester]

Wow...that is a good one to consider. Of course there will not be any solid yes or no....let me think this one over.

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Have a nice day.

[Alex]

My sometimes partner Jeff Mau was a sport climber first, did that for 2 years 'til he got to the 12's. Then immediately started leading gear Index 10. Then moved to gear alpine 10 (I did Beckey Leen with him in 3 hours). Then went alpine snow and ice. That was at the start of his third year of climbing. Then moved to rope solo aiding. Took a few falls, got married, doesnt climb anymore. But he had it going, so I would say...

if you have the head and drive for it, sport climbing provides a solid launch platform.

if you are a cautious person by nature or learn slower, starting trad in the low grades is likely much safer in the long run.

Alex

[dan_e]

All I know is that I am glad that I learned back in the day when you learned to climb by someone who was better than you, much better in my case. I was taught by a guy with 15 years climbing experience (that was 10 years ago) and he could lead hard trad (NE 10's and grade 5 ice). It's not that I was his apprentice, but he 'showed me the ropes' so to speak, it was up to me to decide when I was ready to lead. I climbed every weekend and bouldered (on real boulders) three times during the week. I built strength fast and read every climbing book I could find. I feel sorry for the individuals who have to learn in the gym or by paying guides.

[rayborbon]

dane,

Must have been nice to have the ropegun.

-Ray

 

[J_Fisher]

I think the best approach would be to do both. Most of the folks I know who do harder stuff in the mountains (by hard I mean alpine rock .9/.10) also do lots of cragging, including clipping bolts, and training in the gym. I think you need lots of trad/mountain experience to be fast and competent, but doing lots of hard moves in controlled environments is good for fitness and confidence. The only way to make 5.10 feel relatively easy is to do a bunch of 5.11s. But in my experience people who cut their teeth in a purely sporto environment seem to have a hard time making the transition--some combination of never learning to trust a protection system that isn't pre-installed, and, to be frank, getting so caught up in numbers that their egos find jumping down 3 or more grades hard to take.

[Zenolith]

I think it depends on the person and their opportunities for sport or trad as well as their access to a competent partner from which to learn. In my experience it is easier to get good on sport routes than it is to gain gear placing skills. I trust fewer people to teach me to place gear than those I trust to trade belays up a sport route. I know that if I don't get better at placing gear I will not be able to climb harder routes in the mountains. I will not run out a .7 in the mountains like I will a .6, but if I don't learn to place good gear (or don't have it to place) I can only either a)run it out or b)bail.

All that to say; Learning trad first, or at least in combination with sport, is a better to learn if you want to last.

[rayborbon]

I think sport is fine to start with.

Just make sure the person understands what they are getting into before you send them up thier first climb with pro.

[AJ]

I think it depends on what skills you are trying to work on. If it is the ability to hang on to a "looks too small to hold" crimper or a greasy sloper then by all means the added security of bolt nearby helps. However, even though I enjoy sport climbing it has never done much to teach me about rope management, efficient racking, watching the weather, or numerous other skills that are important on bigger/harder mountain-style climbs.

If you are looking to climb .10 in the mountains you will usually need some crack climbing skills - which (still) usually means being able to do it with gear. I know I usually consider myself a grade or two weaker on pure cracks than on face or friction climbs.

I've met people who could climb .10 cold, off the couch and with almost no instruction. (I'm not one of those people.) I haven't met many who could rig a safe anchor, know when to turn around, or follow a Beckey topo unless they had been around the block.