ctuller Posted April 30, 2003 Posted April 30, 2003 I'm gonna pick up a pair of ropes this summer mostly to avoid the need to take along a second fatty for long raps. I used a half rope setup a few times in the past, but some people in our group found it awkward to belay. I was wondering what others are using and having success with. Quote
Lambone Posted April 30, 2003 Posted April 30, 2003 Get a set of half ropes. One of the big benefits of using a double rope system is the ability to reduce rope drag. You can do this with half ropes, but twins will be the same as a one regular rope. I like the Edelwise Stratos 9 mil ropes, but they are a bit heavier than others. I am confident enough using them individualy on easy mountain routes. They take a beating though! Quote
JoshK Posted April 30, 2003 Posted April 30, 2003 Half Ropes, with a petzl reverso for belaying seconds is a great combo. Otherwise, as you noted, belaying up seconds on half ropes can be a bit annoying. Best thing about the reverso is your shoulder doesn't get all tired from hauling up both ropes. Quote
Lambone Posted April 30, 2003 Posted April 30, 2003 oh yeah, belaying... The half rope system does take a bit more skill to work properly. It can get difficult to belay when you are trying to take in slack on one line and feed it out on the other, but with a little practice it's not so bad. One thing I do to help out my belayer is call out which rope I am clipping so they can give me slack on just that rope. Then they also know which rope will catch me first should I fall, and they can give that one priority. Quote
Greg_W Posted April 30, 2003 Posted April 30, 2003 Lanix has them for $150US at www.acmeclimbing.com, I think. I'm not sure now where I saw them, but Bronco was loooking at them recently, ask him. Quote
JayB Posted May 1, 2003 Posted May 1, 2003 Don't get the twin ropes. Much less versatile than half -ropes, not that much lighter, and they generally generate higher impact forces than any single rope. I got a set of twin ropes (cheap) a few years ago before I knew any better. Not bad on long bolted routes that don't wander all that much with long raps (slabs) but not good for much else. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted May 1, 2003 Posted May 1, 2003 Twin - for low angle, remote, sharp edges, and bomber pro Doubles - for any angle, wondering routs, remote, sharp edges, not so bomber pro, glaciers and more… I will go with doubles any day Quote
ctuller Posted May 1, 2003 Author Posted May 1, 2003 Doubles it is than. Yeah, I had forgotten about that high impact when falling on twins. Quote
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