Stephen_Ramsey Posted April 24, 2003 Posted April 24, 2003 (edited) I'm looking for information on the Colchuck Northeast Couloir. Has anyone out there done this route? Beckey grades it as II-III, but I have heard that the supposedly 60-degree headwall is more like 70 degrees, which sounds pretty sporty... Anyone know which of the finish variations is likely to be the least technical? Is the headwall at the top of the couloir the only really steep part of the route? My partner and I are a bit unsure if we are up to the route, so any information would be helpful. Thanks in advance, Steve Edited April 24, 2003 by Stephen_Ramsey Quote
klenke Posted April 24, 2003 Posted April 24, 2003 No beta on that couloir, but here's a picture of Colchuck from last Friday. You can at least see the top part. I think the lower, constricted half is straightforward. Also, see here for more info: Mountainwerks Quote
Alex Posted April 25, 2003 Posted April 25, 2003 mattp, danielpatricksmith and I have done this route. When we did it in Feb 2002 it had alot less snow than in this picture. The lower 3/4 of the climb is straightforward. The upper 1/4...your mileage may vary. The only beta I can offer is that the path of least resistance may not be the most obvious couloir higher on the face, and that you very well may need two tools to get over short icy steps, and very well may need some rock pro and a rope to make those steps comfortable/safe. The technical difficulties we encountered were short but made the route a non-giveaway. Alex Quote
Bronco Posted April 25, 2003 Posted April 25, 2003 We intended to climb that route last weekend, but, because of the cornices you see at the top and a small point release slide seen while we were debating how stable the cornice looked, we opted for the NE Couloir. The conditions were great in the NE Couloir if that's any indication, good secure step kickin. I did hear from a friend this morning that there was a bunch of new snow at Colchuck lake this week. Not sure how much though. Quote
JoshK Posted April 25, 2003 Posted April 25, 2003 Bronco said: I did hear from a friend this morning that there was a bunch of new snow at Colchuck lake this week. Not sure how much though. Quote
DPS Posted April 25, 2003 Posted April 25, 2003 Looking over the NE Couloir from Triple Couloirs last weekend, it looked to be much more filled in than when Alex, MattP and I did it. I don't remember any 70 degree headwall. I remember a short section of steepish water ice, though. One piece of beta, at the top where it forks, take the left hand coulior as the right hand one ends in steep rock. Unless that's your thing, then take the right fork, who am I to tell you where to go? Quote
Stephen_Ramsey Posted April 26, 2003 Author Posted April 26, 2003 Thanks everyone for the great beta! I'll post a TR on Monday. -Steve Quote
Alex Posted April 28, 2003 Posted April 28, 2003 Stephen, was that you heading up the route Sunday am w/ partner? Quote
Stephen_Ramsey Posted April 28, 2003 Author Posted April 28, 2003 (edited) Alex, Yes, that was me and Elain. Trip report at: http://www.speakeasy.net/~sramsey/climbing/triplog/200304-colchuck3 Thanks for all the advice and beta, fellow CC.com climbers. Cheers Steve Edited April 28, 2003 by Stephen_Ramsey Quote
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